Every now and then, the fashion landscape sees a flurry of happenings—be it huge overhauls in terms of the creative direction for the key maisons or groundbreaking collaborations that attract enthusiasts from every corner of culture. Some of these, undoubtedly causing a palpable shift in the sartorial world. After all, changes at the executive level for the various fashion houses might not only bring about the end of an era with certain iconic designers, but also set in motion a season of change as to who might be next to take up the mantle. One only needs to recall the legacy of Tom Ford’s Gucci or the vision which Karl Lagerfeld had left behind for Chanel; both departures despite being inevitable, were undeniable rupture points for the fashion world.
And at other times, the industry welcomed moments of genius; creative collaborations that cross into the realms of art, film and music turn into the talk of the town, such as Louis Vuitton’s memorable collections with Japanese artists Takashi Murakami and Yayoi Kusama or the many joint moves with widely popular artist KAWS.
Amidst the buzz of affairs this month, it’s inevitable that you might have missed out on some significant drops and announcements over the past few weeks. Not to fret however, for with Vogue Singapore’s bi-weekly round-up, you can consider yourself all caught up. This week, the upcoming fashion calendar will witness some notable highlights of its own: from Saint Laurent’s destination show for its spring/summer 2024 menswear collection to Thom Browne’s first-ever couture collection come July. Executive changes have also been made; Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s abrupt departure from Ann Demeulemeester has been swiftly followed by Stefano Gallici’s ascension to the role. In other news, Louis Vuitton is furthering its culinary expansion with a luxury airport lounge opening in Doha, Qatar.
Catch up on all the fashion news to know, below.
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Stefano Gallici is the latest creative director at Ann Demeulemeester
Quick to take up the mantle at Ann Demeulemeester is Stefano Gallici—who has officially been named as the house’s creative director. He succeeds Ludovic de Saint Sernin who had only been at the helm for six months and had only shown during the fall/winter 2023 season earlier this year. Unlike his predecessor, Gallici is hardly new to the house—previously serving as the menswear designer for the brand. Prior to joining the Antonioli Group—where the Belgian fashion house now finds itself—in 2019, he had been working as an assistant designer to Haider Ackermann. On his appointment, Claudio Antonioli expresses high praise for Gallici: “Stefano immediately demonstrated a strong creativity and a clear vision for Ann Demeulemeester. He represents the DNA of the brand with an eye to the future.” Gallici’s first collection in his new role will be unveiled at Paris Fashion Week in September.
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Louis Vuitton unveils the Louis Vuitton Lounge by Yannick Alléno
With its known heritage, it’s no surprise that Louis Vuitton’s latest venture meets at the intersection of all luxury travel. Now open at Hamad International Airport in Doha, Qatar, the Louis Vuitton Lounge by Yannick Alléno is the miason’s latest culinary concept—conceived in conjunction with Qatar Duty Free. Accessible via the Al Mourjan Business Lounge in the airport, the space offers a sleek, modern landscape with all the design touch points familiar to the house—from its signature trunks to the paradisiacal creations pulled from its Object Nomades catalogue. But it is undeniably the tabled fare that one will find themselves seeking out on a stopover there, with the three-Michelin-star chef helming its extensive menu that dives into an avid exploration of both local ingredients and international classics. Be it fresh local pastries, smoked fish platters or his lauded French favourites, the multi-faceted culinary venture is as promising as can be—to which Alléno simply professes: “The menu is complex because, above all, it should please everyone.”
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Saint Laurent will hold its menswear show in Berlin
Last year, Anthony Vaccarello showed Saint Laurent’s menswear show for spring/summer 2023 in the Marrakech desert. Once again—as if demonstrating his clear preference for off-calendar destination shows—it’s been decided that the house’s spring/summer 2024 menswear collection will be unveiled in Neue Nationalgalerie, a modern art museum in Berlin. The architectural behemoth is considered a structural and artistic masterpiece in the world of modernism—a contemporary combination of metal and glass. The show has also been confirmed for 12 June, which comes ahead of both the fashion week calendars for both Milan and Paris.
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Thom Browne will unveil its first-ever couture collection at Paris Fashion Week in July
Come July, Thom Browne will be staging his first-ever couture show at Paris Fashion Week. This one-off couture collection—final date to be announced—is timed as a momentous kick off to the house’s 20th anniversary celebrations. Whilst the American designer is no stranger to a sartorial extravaganza—what with the theatrical constructions commonly spotted on his ready-to-wear runways—Browne maintains that his approach will also include “making sure that every individual idea and piece is worthy of being show during this week out of respect to the calendar and the couture council,” he tells Vogue.
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Jacquemus x Nike J Force 1
Heads up: another Jacquemus x Nike collaboration is on the way to you. This time around? It’s for the sportswear giant’s mega icon—the Air Force 1. Designed with an upper instantly recognisable to any sneaker head, it would seem that Jacquemus has decided to adopt an alternative design on its sole unit—where nylon cording is weaved all around the base. With two colour ways—black and white—lined-up for a release, one can cop a pair on the Jacquemus site come 13 June.
