Held at the prestigious Armani Teatro theatre in Via Bergognone, Italy, the eclectic and buzzy Emporio Armani autumn/winter 2023 collection referenced costumes from lauded Elizabethan theatre. Velvet suits, ruffle-collared shirts, and cropped waistcoats that all accentuated the wearer’s natural shape took inspiration from popular garbs donned by performers during the early 1600s, a prolific time in English history.
Opening the collection was a stunning monochromatic look in snow white, featuring a collarless tuxedo jacket lined with grey tortoise-shell buttons. Completing the ensemble were matching shorts and a pair of calfskin thigh-high boots, a contemporary take on formal daywear. Soft tailoring followed—a hallmark trait of Armani’s work—in waistcoats and blazers that saw various cuts and fabrics. The palette was a blend of greys and beiges, muted shades that transitioned from day to night seamlessly.
A section of coloured looks emerged, many featuring sportswear influences spliced with traditional luxury daywear. Silk jacquard dresses and faux fur herringbone jackets in vibrant fuscia broke the subtlety of the show, while techno-organza pants with a shimmery finish glittered under the showspace light. Velvet suits followed, their slouchy silhouettes in dark turqoise and deep navy proving to be the statement for the evening.
Shifting into eveningwear, belted halter neck tops were paired with pleated sequinned pants, a versatile look that can be donned for all occasions. Jacquard dresses for the quintessential Armani woman rounded up the collection, accessorised with loosely-knotted ties, supersized pearl necklaces and chokers constructed from detached shirt collars.
Under the stark atmospheric light that lasered the runway, the message was clear: There was a youthful revamp at the house of Emporio Armani, full of spirit whist retaining the exquisite craftsmanship long synonymous with the house. It was a collection for the ages, one that will remain fresh and hopeful in this modern age of dressing.
For more information on the autumn/winter 2023 collection, visit the brand’s official website here.