Vendôme lugs. Search it up and you might not find too much information—it’s one of those oddities of the watch world that has commingled over time with the vagaries of rising and falling popularity. But here are the facts. This style of lugs, the part of a watch that secures the strap or bracelet to the case, was first patented in Paris in 1934 by one Louis Cartier. The design was simple, innovative and elegant: a metal T-bar is attached to the top and bottom of the case, to which notched leather straps are attached. The effect is a subtle and graceful separation of leather from metal, which emphasises the silhouette of the (usually) round case.
Cartier didn’t make much use of the design at the time, and when the patent expired it was Van Cleef & Arpels who picked up on the idea. In 1949, Pierre Arpels created a dress watch for himself that was said to have caught the eyes of enough clients that he added it to the maison’s collection—and which still lives on today. A little later, the maverick and iconic designer Gérald Genta revived the lug style when he created the Pasha de Cartier. And between then and now, plenty of other watchmakers got in on the game and created timepieces that used the elegant lug.
But all that and the rest is, as they say, history. Today, although sporty steel timepieces reign supreme, the vintage-inflected aesthetic (influenced surely by quiet luxury) is having its day in the sun again. And with it, a return to elegance that’s informed and inspired by designs of the past. A Christie’s auction listing for a 1962 Patek Philippe that features this Vendôme-style lug, for example, describes the design as giving “the impression that the lugs are somehow floating beyond the case, without a physical connection to it.” You might have to keep an eye out for the detail when you are finding your match—but now that you do, the elegance of it will stand out more easily.
To make things easier, though, here is an edit of 10 elegant watches that feature Vendôme-style lugs.
1 / 10
Pasha de Cartier 30mm in rose gold, $17,500
Cartier revamped its Pasha de Cartier collection in 2020, reintroducing and setting the style up for complications and novel details such as moonphases, chronographs, skeletonised dials and grids. The core model of the collection, though, has the loveliest vintage affect and features an elaborated version of a Vendôme-style lug in which the ends are shaped like sugarloaf-cut cabochons. Modernity has its advantages too: the watch has a “QuickSwitch” system that allows you to easily pop the straps off and replace it. It’s offered with two alligator leather options in navy blue and grey.
2 / 10
Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels 38mm in white gold with diamond, $23,200
The elegance of Pierre Arpels’ personal wristwatch has rightfully withstood the test of time. The design is sublimely understated, with slender Roman numerals on a white lacquer dial with a lozenge-shaped ‘piqué‘ motif that references Van Cleef & Arpels’s hallmark. A single diamond set into the crown subtly ties it back to the house’s jewellery roots
3 / 10
La Grande Classique de Longines 24mm in stainless steel with red PVD coating, $1,810
Though it launched in 1992, the La Grande Classique de Longines collection has style beyond its years. Its watches have graced the wrists of stars like Jennifer Lawrence on the red carpet of the Cannes Film Festival. The collection includes plenty of options when it comes to sizes, colours, straps and gem-set cases. But this understated piece hits all the right notes: a slim profile, uncluttered white dial, and super slim Roman numerals.
4 / 10
Chopard Imperiale 29mm in ethical rose gold and Lucent Steel, $9,920
Chopard’s Imperiale collection takes its inspiration from the grandeur of historical empires. The mother-of-pearl centre of the dial, for example, features a floral arabesque motif drawn from royal embroideries, and a crown that’s quite literally crown-shaped. The shape of its lugs evolve on the Vendôme style to evoke ancient architectural columns.
5 / 10
Harry Winston Premier Automatic 31mm in white gold with diamonds, price on request
Timepieces at Harry Winston, as you might imagine, are more akin to jewels that happen to tell the time. This sophisticated design features an attention-grabbing blue beaded mother-of-pearl dial engraved with a sun ray pattern. Which—just almost!—competes with more than 200 diamonds set into the 18-karat white gold case, crown, buckles and lugs, as well as the dial itself with an emerald-cut (Mr. Harry Winston’s personal favourite style) at 12 o’clock.
6 / 10
Bovet Miss Audrey 36mm in stainless steel with diamonds, price on request
The Miss Audrey collection from Bovet features the brand’s historically-inspired yet innovative Amadeo case, which can be worn three ways. Leave the straps on as a wristwatch, or remove them to wear it on a chain that can be attached to the top bow, or placed as a desk clock with a ring on the back that flips open to become a stand.
7 / 10
Omega De Ville Ladymatic 34mm in stainless steel with diamonds, $12,000
Omega’s Ladymatic had its heyday in the 1960s, but its classic simplicity looks perfectly right once more for today. This steel model with a Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial and date window at 3 o’clock features white gold hands and diamond-set indices. The links that connect the strap to the case are also subtly decorated with a house signature wave motif.
8 / 10
Les Pierres de Rêve de Chaumet in rose gold with diamonds, $49,600
The Les Pierres de Rêve de Chaumet collection pays tribute to an ancient form of Chinese art known as dream stones. Slabs of marble with naturally occurring patterns and colours are carefully selected and cut to reveal visuals of mountains and forests—a wonder that’s been described as nature depicting nature. The creations by French jeweller Chaumet feature 12 different ornamental stones each with a completely unique dial. This one, cased in rose gold and set with diamonds, features red picture jasper with a pattern reminiscent of autumnal hills.
9 / 10
Tissot Bellissima 26mm in stainless steel, $580
Think of this little Tissot as an everyday touch of elegance. It’s got classic Roman numerals, a nifty date window, Dauphine hands, and a mother-of-pearl centre on the dial. Consider an au-courant green leather strap.
10 / 10
Frederique Constant Art Deco Oval in stainless steel, $1,560
Frederique Constant’s Art Deco line, from its Classics collection, rightfully nods to the influential and fashionable design movement of the 1920s and ’30s. This oval model, a refreshing change from the more usual circles that you’ll find with Vendôme-style lugs, leans into old world detailing. There’s guilloché decoration on the dial, an intricately fluted case band, and a cabochon set into its crown.
