Following our Vogue Man feature with Eddie Goh—where he spoke about continuing his late brother Laichan’s legacy—we take a closer look at his late brother’s eponymous label he now steers. Established in the late ’80s as The Dress Shop in Liang Court before relocating to Raffles Hotel in 1991, the label quickly became known for its modern take on the cheongsam—bias-cut silhouettes, Italian silks, French lace and subtle, handcrafted details. Goh, who trained under Laichan for decades, now leads the label from its Mandarin Gallery studio, continuing its focus on garments that honour tradition while responding to the present.
How did you start your journey into fashion. What sparked your entry and what continues to drive your work today?
My journey into fashion wasn’t planned. I started working with my brother, Laichan, around 1987—just helping out. Gradually, I found myself drawn to the process: the discipline, the detail, the quiet satisfaction of creating something with my hands. Back then, it wasn’t about launching a label, but about building something meaningful together. Over time, the brand became a reflection of that shared purpose.
What are the biggest challenges you’ve faced as a designer in Singapore and how have they shaped your creative direction?
One of the biggest challenges has been maintaining consistency while adapting to change. We’ve never followed trends, so staying true to our values in a fast-moving world takes discipline. After Laichan’s passing, the emotional and practical weight of continuing the brand became a new challenge. But I take it one day at a time, staying close to what we both believed in: quality, elegance and quiet strength.
“We don’t force tradition into the design—it’s part of the foundation.”
How does Singapore—its culture, textures or rhythms—show up in your design language?
Our work has always drawn from Singapore’s cultural texture: our blend of tradition, simplicity and multicultural influences. You see it in the silhouettes, in the subtle detailing, in how our garment moves. We don’t force tradition into the design—it’s part of the foundation. Whether it’s the qipao silhouette or hand-finished details, we focus on what feels relevant today.
What does ‘home’ mean to you and how does that feeling manifest in your creative process?
Home is quiet, familiar and personal. It’s not just a place. It’s a sense of belonging and being true. That’s how I approach design: with care, with intention and with respect for the person wearing the garment. Every piece we make is meant to feel like a second skin, to enhance who you are.
Where do you see homegrown fashion on the global stage and what makes it distinct in your eyes?
Singaporean fashion is subtle. It’s about ease, clarity and quiet elegance. It reflects who we are as a people: practical yet vocal, respectful of tradition but open to the world. I don’t see heritage and modernity as opposing forces. Heritage grounds us; modernity keeps us responsive. The key is to stay rooted without getting stuck. We may not have a defined global ‘look’ yet, but we have a point of view. And that’s where it starts.
If your design ethos/brand was a Singaporean dish, what would it be and why?
Probably chwee kueh. It’s a very Singaporean dish: simple, unassuming, and not as easy to create as it seems. When made well, it’s full of depth and balance. That’s our work—quietly intricate, yet impactful.
Vogue Singapore’s July/August ‘Home’ issue is out on newsstands now and available to order online.
