Vogue’s best looks from the Dior and Saint Laurent fall/winter 2023 shows

Dior FW23

10-word show review: A light, timeless homage to youth, femininity and the ‘50s.
Designer: Maria Grazia Chiuri
Location: Jardin des Tuileries

The vision: If there is one thing Maria Grazia Chiuri has perfected, it is the innate ability to hone in on the Dior woman—or girl—no matter the time, space or era. For fall/winter 2023, the many protagonists Chiuri had in mind were particularly close to home. Taking inspiration from French women such as Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco, who were all post-War clients of the house, Chiuri’s board was led by their independent spirits and subversive lives. The first marking for what was to come fell on the transformative set in the middle of the Jardin des Tuileries. With a large installation by Portuguese artist Joanna Vasconcelos hovering above the crowd, onlookers were greeted by colourful and sparkling circular orbs that proved to be the most maximalist element of the show. 

Signature style: The pieces sent down the runway were that of a particular Dior customer. In this case, one that favoured the simple, light and unfussy. Reflecting on the relationship between the body and fashion, it was a considered nod to the 1950s. Mottled fabric and metallic thread came together to introduce breathability and tartan coats, jackets and skirts made a statement. Colours such as ruby, emerald and topaz found moments to shine as the 96-look collection went on. It was a masterful balance of heritage and pieces the modern day wearer would covet, from the simple black dress (Look 2) to a sparkling statement top handle (Look 47).

What to shop from the collection: It’s evident that Chiuri had a lot of fun with the variations of accessories for this line up. Case in point: the ever-popular Dior book tote bags that looked just a tad larger this season (Look 21); the flurry of top handles in different colours and cropped, brown, leather jackets that would not be out of place in the wardrobes of It girls everywhere. (Look 56).

Saint Laurent FW23

10-word show review: An ode to the worlds of elegance, sex, and theatrics.
Designer: Anthony Vaccarello
Location: Fontaine de Jardin du Trocadéro

The vision: Hosted within the smoky interior of a stark space set on the Fontaine de Jardin du Trocad, Anthony Vaccarello made elegance his keyword of this season and in true fashion, delivered in all senses of the word. Beyond the notion of elegance was a nod to the classic Saint Laurent woman and her accompanying style, one that can be described as precise yet feeling.

Signature style: As the models sauntered down the runway—each one poised, sophisticated and undeniably Saint Laurent in essence— precision was at the forefront of the designs that clothed them. Structured blazers and leather jackets engulfed their frames in a way that was magnificently minimalist yet bold; scarves were arranged to lead the eye up and around the shoulders and neck; barely-there tank tops and sheer dresses skimmed past uncovered chests and slim pencil skirts expertly tied the looks together. As each look was uncovered, it was hard to tell whether one was experiencing marvel or innate understanding—the beauty is that it might have been a melding of both.

What to shop from the collection: Though this might be a bold statement, there’s not a single piece from the Saint Laurent fall/winter 2023 collection that would be ill-placed in a woman’s wardrobe. While the line up proves to bear strong statements in the form of silhouettes, each piece, at its core, has been designed to be lived in. While the supple-looking leather bomber jackets and angular blazers (Looks 7 and 34) are classic picks, the collection’s accessories—namely the beautiful slingback pumps in an assortment of suede and patent—knock it out of the park. Opt for headknocker earrings if you’re one for minimalism by way of clothes and add on the heels for good measure.