Show: Dior fall/winter 2025
Designer: Maria Grazia Chiuri
Location: Jardin des Tuileries
The vibe: It was the beginning of civilisation Dior-style for its fall/winter 2025 show, complete with a show-stopping display of ice bergs, meteors and a fleeting projection of lava. And perhaps there is a deeper link—there have been whispers of a new chapter with all the sudden changes of creative directors in just the last six months, and Maria Grazia, who has been at the helm of the brand since 2016, has also been looped into the speculation. It was business as usual at today’s show, hosted at the brand’s staple space, Jardin des Tuileries, with the trappings of celebrities like Jisoo and Seventeen’s Mingyu glittering the afternoon. Chiuri looked deep into the past—at the works of Gianfranco Ferrè, John Galliano—steeping the house codes into what the brand describes as a map.
The vision: As showgoers walked into the decidedly smaller set than in previous years, they were greeted by the vision of a swing, perched at the centre of the room—around it, an inky black depth outlined with glimmers of white, sharp LED lights. “Each collection is a construction, a project steeped in fantasy. An awareness. An invitation to use fashion to be yourself,” explains Dior. “Garments, therefore, constitute a repertoire of possibilities. Thus, the white shirt—which, for Maria Grazia Chiuri, is the founding element of an outfit freed from gender stereotypes—converses with the forms conceived by Gianfranco Ferré, who becomes a reference for this collection.” To illustrate this, Chiuri looked to the heritage markers of the brand, presenting an almost unexpected and eclectic mix of what seemed like great hits, ranging from the J’adore Dior T-shirt to intricately embroidered and layered sheer ensembles, angular crinolines, inky velvet accents, and heavy leather jackets and coats—lace collars and raincoats completing the vision.
A key takeaway from the collection: While the beauty of Chiuri’s designs is undeniable, what gets lost in translation, however, is the through-line that she has become known for. In bringing together versions of Dior cornerstones from the past, its voice right in this moment, what we all want to hear in these uncertain times, is not clear. There was a cohesiveness lacking even amongst the intention, leaving a sense and want for more. The collection’s sentiment for metamorphosis and heritage proves a guiding light and we look forward to what’s to come.
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