Denise Chong needs no introduction. Despite a relatively discreet online presence, she boasts a special kind of clout akin to that of an entertainer having a mononym: her pieces invoke instant recognition. The 23-year-old student-designer’s creations have found themselves on glitterati in Singapore and abroad; on musician Alfred Sun, a silver beaded headpiece and on songstress Aisyah Aziz, a loosely-draped dress constructed from the same material.
“I design a lot from what I feel, like how they say it in Chinese—guanjie—and I think about how to court the gaze of the viewer,” explains Chong. “I start by choosing a bead I would like to work with and see what patterns I can create from there. It’s a lot of trial and error. I work on the design on my mannequin and see how the beads flow on the body before anything else.”
It’s no wonder, then, that Chong notes Alexander McQueen as one of her biggest inspirations, among other fashion luminaries like Carine Roitfeld and Franca Sozzani—all of whom mirror her vision of bringing together artisanal handiwork and sex appeal. And though her earliest memories of clothes lie in the delicate comforts of teenhood, her take on design has since found an inimitable sultriness. “I would binge-watch Gossip Girl in secret after school and read manga like Paradise Kiss or Nana. I was that Blair Waldorf girl,” she muses.
Today, Chong’s initial affixation for tutu skirts and polka-dot leggings has transmuted into figure-skimming barely-there pieces that range from risqué thongs to intricate bags under the umbrella of her eponymous label. It also consists of both purchase-ready and custom-order options. As she works on dropping a new line-up this June—one she hints will be “really quite different”—she has her sights set on an eventual retail space. And as for who she would love to eventually dress? “Jasmine Sokko and Hunter Schafer.”
How would you describe yourself as a designer?
A designer who’s her own atelier. In all seriousness, I am someone who pays a lot of attention to detail so I tend to spend a lot of time trying to perfect a design. Sometimes, I even bring out old pieces and add a few beads here and there to make it better.
Tell us about your creative process.
It’s a lot of trial and error, to be honest. I think most people might assume I sketch before starting but I actually work on the design on my mannequin and see how the beads flow on the body before working on the overall silhouette.
What would you say have been some of your proudest moments and biggest challenges so far?
My proudest achievement is probably the making of the Echo Dress. It took three weeks and I was beading almost every other night. It was a struggle but I’m glad it is exactly how I imagined it to be. I want to challenge myself and shock people. I’m glad it was shot so beautifully on Ariel Dong and Aisyah Aziz.
“I design a lot from what I feel, like how they say it in Chinese—guanjie—and I think about how to court the gaze of the viewer.”
Tell us about some of the pieces that exist in your collection now.
Right now, I only have a few pieces left from my first two collections Coercion and Intrigue as well as a few headpieces and dresses that are not slotted into collections yet. Denise Chong Adornments ranges from $29 for a pair of earrings to $129 for a beaded bag, while the main line ranges from $220 for a made-to-measure men’s thong to $650 for a sleeved top with tassel detailing.
Who are some people you would love to collaborate with?
I really like Linaoth Official by Lina Osman. I think she’s a very talented individual and I admire her work for womenswear. I would definitely love to see beadwork either paired with her pieces or in her design silhouettes.
What’s next?
I’m excited to release my new collection soon which I created in line with my final year project as I explore more with materials and colours. It’s really quite different. Meanwhile, I’m designing a new release for Denise Chong Adornments and maybe after my final year project, I would like to do something more “masculine” for a new muse I have in mind.
What is your vision for your brand in the next five years?
I’d love to expand the team and I hope to display my pieces in a retail space.
Photography Eric Seow
Styling Desmond Lim
Hair and make-up Marc Teng using Kevin Murphy and Laura Mercier
Photographer’s assistant Tang Kin Yee
Fashion assistants Joey Tan and Jiajia Tan
For more stories like this, subscribe to the print edition of Vogue Singapore.
