At the fall/winter 2025 presentations of New York Fashion Week, a sentiment has become abundantly clear: exhaustion is in the air. And while some might argue that it is simply the byproduct of a hectic fashion month, others would claim differently—especially considering how the models at Altuzarra, TWP, and Collina Strada were sporting manufactured renditions. Think a spectrum of red, ochre, and bruise-like colouring; a tableau of fatigued, sunken-looking peepers set against a bare face. It begs the question: is this movement an attempt at overthrowing antiquated beauty standards? A commentary on the mental health epidemic plaguing us right now? Or are dark under eye circles, simply put, just plain sexy?
In all fairness, it is likely to be a combination of all three. It helps, too, that achieving said effect reduces rather than adds to one’s make-up regime, with successful adopters of the trend opting to eschew concealer entirely. There is also the fact that it adds to the narrative of being booked, busy, and unbothered—so much so that looking refreshed isn’t on the agenda. Bearing these factors in mind, I soon came to the conclusion that emulating said look on a normal work day would be a rather low-stakes venture. And so begins my investigation.
How to get the look
Having a plethora of sinus-related issues means that I’ve been dealing with dark, purplish under eye circles my entire life. Even on days where a full face of make-up feels like too much of a chore, I’ve never once abstained from my trusty Clé de Peau Beauté Concealer stick. This, in large part, is due to the warped association I have with exhaustion and unprofessionalism; a line of thought that sprung forth as a result of mandatory etiquette classes during my schooling days. An absence of make-up—and not covering up perceived “imperfections”—is an indicator of laziness that, thus, reflects a slapdash attitude towards work.
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In an attempt to combat this, I decided the best way to go about it is to be as deliberate as possible. By this, I mean adding to the impression of dark under eye circles rather than shirking away from it. Instead of my usual concealer, I opted for a muted, red-toned eyeshadow along the hollows of my peepers, à la Meruert Tolegen at NYFW.
The reactions
It’s a mixed bag, to say the least. There is nothing subtle about this look, which meant I got a couple of double-takes on the train on my way to dinner with my friends. The approval rating within my friend group was somewhere along the 50/50 range, with supporters deeming it appropriately dark and moody. Naysayers, on the other hand, brought up zombie comparisons.
The conclusion
In all honesty, I think I would have garnered more converts if I had better executed the look. I found that I set myself up for failure by not removing my eyelash extensions beforehand—the undone, whimsical charm to the look was lost thanks to my dramatic set of lashes. Secondly, there’s something to be said about having the right skillset and appearance for it. According to professional make-up artist Kenneth Chia, it hinges a lot on an individual’s make-up skill.
“I don’t think it’s a trend that will be very well-received in Singapore. It’s inherently very European,” he admits. “Long story short? You have to be good at make-up to pull it off, and also have the right kind of dark eye circles for your face,” he concludes. “It’s a really tricky balance to strike.”
