Chanel’s 2020/21 Métiers d’art show presented an anthology of parallels. Virginie Viard titled the collection ‘‘Le Château des Dames’’, which also happens to be what the Medieval castle it was presented in is known as. ‘‘It was designed and lived in by women’’, said the creative director about the grand show location, which once housed the likes of King Henry II’s wife, Catherine de’ Medici and royal mistress, Diane de Poitiers. Viard had been inspired by such Renaissance women—as was Coco Chanel—and dreamt up dark and decadent contemporary interpretations of her own for pre-fall.
Then there’s the part about Chanel being its own “le château” (or “castle”) of trailblazing women, which includes Lucia Pica, global make-up and colour director, who helped to bring these modern maidens to life with a touch of gothic princess beauty.
Both a nod to the collection’s gothic glamour and these mask-wearing times, models’ eyes were the focal point—think jet black, precisely dual-lined eyes that outlined the cut-crease like crescents, slightly smoked out with a touch of matte, charcoal eyeshadow. Their complexions were kept simple and satiny, while pouts were kept fresh and plump with a clear coat of shine. Hair was decidedly undone, with kink-y, piece-y waves that looked as if the models’ had just released tight, Medieval braids, with some even embellished with a gold hairband and cascading pearls.
“The collection embodies the Renaissance spirit. It is a very modern interpretation of strong women owning their power. The makeup is graphic and strong, it exaggerates the eyes into a bigger, wider shape. The look emphasises black and matte on the eyes with clear shiny lips and a blurry matte skin’’, Pica described.
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