Show review in a line: A love letter to freedom and the artistry of self-expression
Designer: Chanel’s design team
Location: Grand Palais
The vibe: This season, the much-anticipated Chanel spring/summer 2025 show unfurled under the enchanting theme of freedom. Marking a new era following the departure of former creative director Virginie Viard, a palpable sense of excitement and intrigue enveloped the venue. Including a starry front row graced by celebrities like Blackpink’s Jennie, Rebecca Armstrong and Vogue Singapore’s September digital cover star, Laufey, guests were welcomed by a striking open birdcage—a poignant homage to a gilded metal cage that still anchors Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment today. This evocative symbol hinted at a collection dedicated to the audacious women who transcended societal constraints in the early 1900s, encapsulating a relentless pursuit of liberation.
The vision: Artfully melding strength and grace, the collection showcased a delicate interplay of soft tailoring and fluid accents, crafting a line up both commanding and ethereal. Inspired by the dazzling Music Halls of yesteryear, it celebrated the spirit of the roaring twenties and the Garçonne movement, showcasing a bold blend of masculine and feminine elements. Cropped tailoring, trompe-l’œil detailing, and burlesque suits adorned with feather boas and elevated platform footwear took centre stage, while a pastel palette of delicate baby pinks mirrored the flooring, and soft greens echoed the museum’s reimagined iron architecture.
A recurring motif of taking flight emerged, evident through aviator jackets adorned with whimsical Peter Pan collars, flowing silk capes featuring Pierrot collars, and feather prints intertwined with bird embroideries. The collection emanated a sense of movement and lightness, where transparency, graphic lines, and jewel-like buttons reminiscent of the venue contributed to an overall narrative of liberation.
What to shop from this collection: If there’s one thing to note about this season’s designs, it was an unapologetic flair for the dramatic. The aviator jackets, accented with feathered Peter Pan collars, were absolute head-turners. But the pièce de résistance? Suits elegantly draped in feather boas and adorned with headbands featuring intricate detailing. If you’re teeming to add a Chanel piece to your wardrobe, there was something playful and whimsical about this collection that we think is set to be current for years to come.
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