Bottega Veneta SS24
10-word show review: Globetrotting fashion in a collection inspired by a myriad of destinations
Designer: Matthieu Blazy
Location: Bovisa district
The vision: Bottega Veneta’s spring/summer 2024 show has us all lusting for a getaway. The collection sets its premise with its show invitation, which came in the form of a compass attached to a leather strap. On its face depicts the map of the world. Matthieu Blazy‘s task when it came to his collection’s ambitious theme to take inspiration from all over the world was no easy feat. In its vastness, the world has many cultures, often with both contrasts and similarities. Attempts to reconcile such varying destinations into a cohesive collection are insurmountably hard and yet, Blazy does it yet again with finesse and class.
The vibe: Once you step into the space, you get a feeling that you just entered a gateway into Blazy’s perspective of the world. A sea of turquoise-blue tiles lines the entire space. Printed on it are whimsical drawings of islands, hermit crabs, seagulls and even the designer’s own pet dog John John. The environment beckons the audience to escape into an activity so very often associated with summer—to revel in new landscapes and the sun that envelops it all through a vacation that is much yearned for.
Signature silhouettes: References to nature in different parts of the world came in flocks within the collection. Some came in the embellishments that they were adorned with (peep Look 34’s yellow eyelet dress with natural pearls strung along its straps). Others, like strappy sandals that emulated banana leaves, explored biomimicry as an approach. Consistent with Blazy’s previous collection for the house so far, leather and craft is always a key focus—this time seen in fresh silhouettes like sculptural skirts, poncho-like trenches and delicious dress options.
Ferragamo SS24
10-word show review: A revamping of codes and leitmotifs in a daring collection
Designer: Maximilian Davis
Location: Palazzo Delle Scintille
The vision: Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2024 show might just be Maximilian Davis‘s strongest showing yet. With this season being his third helming the storied house, it is safe to say that Davis has successfully melded the daringness of his own now-defunct namesake label and the refined nature of the brand seamlessly. While his references were all about history—from the Arte Povera, an Italian art movement between the late 60s and the 70s to Renaissance armour, his collection was very much about subversion from the past. New codes were introduced and old ones were put aside almost completely for now, forming a collection that was equal parts brave and intelligent.
The vibe: Set in Palazzo Delle Scintille, the interior was in clean tones of white. It was a refreshing change of pace for the house— it differed starkly from the colourful and bold settings of Davis’s previous two showings. It is as though Davis wanted us to focus visually on the looks almost devotingly. And for good reason too—Davis’s daringness comes in full bloom through the details.
Signature silhouettes: What seems to be deliberately minimised is the eye-grabbing red hue that was seen in Davis’s past two collections. In its place are strategic pops of bottle green and striking blue that came in the form of both garments and bags—the latter of which we know will soon make its round as the It-accessory to have. The Arte Povera reference was also clear and evident. Contrasting colours and materiality were seen in abundance—elements like metal hardware cocooned within necklines, panels of leather assembled like armour and the Frankenstein-ing of colours throughout pieces stood out. Ostentatious and textural belts also made their appearance unsparingly (a possible trend this season, perhaps?).
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