What a whirlwind of a month it has been for fashion. The fall/winter 2024 season has assuredly made its indelible mark, of groundbreaking debuts and artisans that have once again, reinvented the wheel. And what of the beauty that has been served alongside? If Maison Margiela’s recent couture showcase was anything to go by, it is that no runway (however scintillating of a collection) is complete without the aid of the glam team. Almost taking heed from the doll-like success from Margiela, was Marc Jacobs. Where the brand celebrated its 40th anniversary at Park Avenue Armoury, with models waltzing across the historic halls donning paper-doll inspired mod lashes and bouffant hair, a match made in heaven considering the collection’s whimsical silhouettes.
Playful dramatisations of the past suffused the beauty sphere of the fall/winter 2024 runways, as makeup artists made a whimsical nod to antecedent glamour while looking towards fantastical futures. Pat McGrath’s ’80s punk-inspired latex winged eyeliner for Versace and Romero Jennings’s ’90s grunge dark kohl and gloss eye look for Prabal Gurung both arbitrarily borrow from styles of different decades, while dialling up the maximalist approach.
Vibrant tones also took the spotlight; splashes of rococo gold and spacey silver were accompanied by futuristic pops of jewel and neon, as models walked down the runways of Emporio Armani while Dior scored with opalescent violet eyelids and hot pink hues on the inner corners of the eyes.
As we revel in the high that is the epic fall/winter 2024 season, the Vogue Singapore beauty team reflects on the most striking beauty looks seen from the New York, Milan and Paris runways.
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New York: Wiederhoeft
For fall, Jackson Wiederhoeft’s characters came to play on the runway. If mystery with a side of kook was the brief, then the beauty notes fell right in line. Manes were given theatrical flair in tight, uniform curls—mired by a prim plum shade that would make perfect sense here. No goths, just some with a darker sense of humour.
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New York: Ludovic de Saint Sernin
Hot, sensual sex was at full throttle for Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s turn at NYFW this season. With clear BDSM motifs and butt-cleavage all strapped into the collection, models strutted out in moods leaning toward provocation, cemented only by their straggling, wet strays drooping all over, as if they had just emerged out of a sweaty night rave.
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New York: Naeem Khan
It’s to be expected that a gown from Naeem Khan would shimmer like cascades of starlight—each one threaded perfectly into place with each sway and stride. Rather than overpower the glitzy garment, the details on top were kept simple and pristine. A glowing mien and slicked-back updo allowing all but one detail to shine: strategically-placed slivers of silver surrounding the peepers.
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New York: Thom Browne
Sublime transformations are always par for course at Thom Browne. Whilst most sported the same braided horns, Browne’s final model—Alex Consani—veered far away from Edgar Allan Poe’s The Raven; rather than sharp black talons and crimson red lips, she was instead dusted in buckets of gold, from her gold-flaked pout to that highlight streak down her cheek contour line.
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New York: Luar
At Luar, a whole other world was being conjured up on the runway. It made sense then, that everyone—irrespective of their gender—wore their hair in uniquely braided coifs, some left undone for futuristic flair. Flamboyance was the way forward, and exacted in gravity-defying tips, iridescent inner corners and lusciously darkened lips.
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Milan: Giorgio Armani
At Giorgio Armani, a sweet innocence was imparted through doll-like fixtures. In retro fashion, eyes were generously dusted in whites, then elevated with a subtle graphic liner. Meanwhile, lips and cheeks were kept rosy; lashes outwardly draped underneath, for that sliver of drama.
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Milan: Aniye Records
The prose of rock and roll seduction was certainly not lost at the Aniye Records show. Effectively complying with the grunge aesthetic of the garb, were glossy lips lined with a darker crimson red as well as white-out brows to call all attention to the smoked-out eyes.
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Milan: Max Mara
If there was one beauty brief we imagined Max Mara had, it would be to bring out a woman’s features by way of really good application. From the deft contouring to brow-shading and even down to that last smidge of iridescent at the corner of the eyes, everything worked together to make the looks impactful as they came.
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Milan: Gucci
Resuming the wet coiffed streak as seen on the runways, Gucci channelled the strong, sensual woman via fully-lined eyes, with the top lids getting a thicker edge. Everything else was kept intentionally bare.
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Milan: Emporio Armani
If Giorgio Armani was a young doll face, Emporio Armani would be its grown-up sister. A sublime swathe of jewel tones awashed the lids at Emporio Armani—in a masterclass of blending and defining—while lips were kept pretty in pink.
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Milan: Roberto Cavalli
Like a mermaid fresh out of the water, Roberto Cavalli’s bronzy smoky eyes was a clear winner. Not because it was a novel combination, but because it swayed with gentle restraint, against wet lids and a perfectly neutral canvas.
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Paris: Rokh
Siren hair and dewy eye tints romance the renaissance at Rokh, as ideals of beauty from foregone centuries are reimagined with delicate painterly strokes and an ample amount of styling gel.
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Paris: Mugler
Rather than whole-heartedly committing to the aesthetic of “more is more”, Mugler offers an open-ended approach to maximalism with generous hues of crimson across the eyelids and corresponding lips in contrast with purposefully bare cheeks and unvarnished skin.
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Paris: Roisin Pierce
Roisin Piece continues to speak her love language of lace while embracing the seasonal favourite of glowing complexions and big lashes. Models walked out with eyes fully ensheathed in an achromatic shade, adding the splash of whimsy as seen through this season’s collection.
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Paris: Valentino
Valentino swaps last season’s vampy bordeaux for gothic glamour with inky, lightly-glossed lips that celebrates the return of colour with the boldest one on the palette. Pat McGrath’s pigmented pout brings character and flair without the drama, adding a tangible edge to the ethereal vision of glass hair and dewy skin.
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Paris: Saint Laurent
Sleek, minimalist head wraps ensured that all eyes were drawn to faces adorned with liberal but fine applications of tonal fall hues. All the while, delicately complemented with a sensual, rosy pout.
