For years, the notion of a distinctive Singaporean question. As with the Big Four—New York, London, Milan and Paris—Fashion Weeks have long served as a stomping ground for individuals to express a sense of vision, often reflecting the broader cultural or national mood. And then, of course, there is reference to some of the most creatively defining eras that are often credited with setting in motion the landscape we have today.
Deeply rooted in the idea of community, our culture has seen an overarching evolution, spanning from the Centrepoint Kids in the ’80s—known for their rebellious, out-of-the-box styles that defied norms—to the subculture movements in the ’90s and early noughties, from punk to streetwear. To date, we’ve seen Singapore Fashion Week, Audi Fashion Festival and Digital Fashion Week Singapore, to name a few. And while there have been many expressions of personal dress over the years, a succinct, overarching definition has remained elusive. And maybe, as most things are within fashion, the absence of a definition is a great thing. To me, more than anything, it signifies a continuous well of potential.
“Singapore style in general is casual and comfortable but these days we are starting to evolve our own tropical style, for example, T-shirts and shorts but more stylish,” notes Singaporean singer, playwright, songwriter and director, Dick Lee. “Since we don’t have a national costume, we’ve basically had to make do with convenience. But as we’ve become more of a global city, international trends have influenced and inspired us to dress better. Since we can’t really adapt ethnic dress and fusion styles have been tried but look forced, we will probably evolve a tropical look that has strong Asian undertones in the future,” he notes.
“There is a strong focus these days not to follow rules. The days of assimilation as a conscious effort are over, as I believe we have evolved our identity to the point of having a stronger sense of our being Singaporean.”
Lee boasts a distinct style of his own, and over the years has become known for his sharp yet vibrant take on traditional suiting and shirts, spanning striking prints, pinks and reds. “My personal take on Singapore style is to embrace the tropics, which translates to colour and vibrancy, reflecting the spirit of our environment, multi-ethnic and urban. My signature is colourful prints and I love silk,” he shares. “It’s encouraging to see people dress according to how they feel, with no one pointing and staring. Individuality is finally accepted and normalised. There is a strong focus these days not to follow rules. The days of assimilation as a conscious effort are over, as I believe we have evolved our identity to the point of having a stronger sense of our being Singaporean.”
Former supermodel Pat Kraal, who is now owner of Platinum Angels Management, started modelling at the age of 19. She became one of the earliest Singaporean faces and top models to represent brands like Givenchy and Balmain on international runways. She shares: “Singaporeans have grown up in a culture that values harmony and that can make standing out feel uncomfortable. But I see change, especially with the younger generation and with older women too. At Platinum Angels Management, our over-50 models are embracing their individuality more than ever. There’s real beauty in no longer needing approval. You start dressing for you, not the crowd.” Kraal brings a distinct perspective to this, having lived in both Singapore and Paris, but being at the forefront of trend production, literally wearing creations fresh off the runway and also seeing these trends trickle down to the rest of the world, having developed her own sense of sartorial structure in the process.
“When one puts an outfit together and is proud to wear it and identify themselves as a Singaporean, that is defining local style.”
As she reflects on the growing definition of what Singapore style looks like, she says: “Singapore is still discovering her fashion identity. The mix of cultures here is rich and inspiring, but it also creates this tug of war between tradition and modernity, East and West, blending in and standing out. And maybe there’s still a bit of fear around being ‘too much’. But fashion should be daring. Style is born from taking risks, not repetition.”
For creative director and fashion show producer Daniel Boey, who recently launched a designer collective called dBX and a fashion label called Furry Tales, his 35-year trajectory in the industry gives him an incredibly overarching and nuanced view of what fashion looks like on our shores. “Singapore style is individualistic and varies from person to person. It has to develop organically and from the ground up, not through officially sanctioned design competitions that profess to ‘search for the Singapore dress’, which have all missed the mark spectacularly,” he explains. “Singapore dress is not just an emblem—like slapping an orchid on a print or an outfit—nor is it a confused smorgasbord of different ethnic elements in one ensemble. It is all of the above, but it has to evolve from the streets, from the people who adapt different styles in order to identify as Singaporeans. When enough of those begin to adopt a style or an identity, then we are on the road to discovering a Singapore identity.” A proud supporter of local and Asian designers, Boey makes a strong effort to bolster visibility as well. “When one puts an outfit together and is proud to wear it and identify themselves as a Singaporean, that is defining local style. For me, it means wearing Singapore designers when I am attending events, locally and overseas, especially at Fashion Weeks, when the look I have put together identifies me as someone who proudly comes from Singapore. It always makes me so proud when someone stops me and asks me who I am wearing, and I say ‘I’m wearing a Singapore designer’.”
“To dress with a sense of self here means embracing your roots, your influences, your stories—and allowing that to inform your aesthetic.”
And finally, for fashion designer and couturier Frederick Lee, who sets and defines looks from his drawing board, there is a sense of hopefulness when it comes to the future-facing notion Singapore has become known for. Having launched his label in 1990, he has conceptualised the shifts in his vision, while having a consumer-focused lens on what it is customers are buying into. “To dress with a sense of self here means embracing your roots, your influences, your stories—and allowing that to inform your aesthetic. It’s about creating new mythologies rather than following fleeting trends. My creations don’t follow trends; they create stories that feel personal and relevant to today’s audiences,” he notes. As for what’s to come? “The future of Singapore couture will be shaped by the harmonious integration of technology and traditional craftsmanship, resulting in innovative, sustainable and breathtakingly beautiful creations.”
Vogue Singapore’s July/August ‘Home’ issue is out on newsstands now and available to order online.
