It’s no surprise that everyone loves a Uniqlo launch. The Japanese brand has long been a favourite among fashion aficionados for its easy-to-wear, easy to-style and versatile pieces that not only elevate the everyday but also carry a distinctive sense of functionality. Enter Clare Waight Keller, the iconic fashion designer behind some of the most pivotal fashion houses of our time. Renowned for her mastery of classic tailoring and her refined take on British ease, she was appointed creative director of Uniqlo in September 2024. Already, she has drawn a devoted following eager to see the unique fusion of design and practicality she brings to the brand.
With her arrival, she introduced Uniqlo : C—a sub-brand that focuses on elevated, stylish pieces infused with dressiness and finesse, yet anchored by the brand’s signature ease. Released in two parts—the first on 15 July and the second on 5 September—the line presents a beautifully minimalist collection where playfulness is explored through silhouette and functionality. Aptly titled Modernity in Motion, the collection is built around versatile, season-spanning pieces crafted in fabrics that are designed to carry one seamlessly through different climates and occasions. And of course, it’s only fitting that such a launch is shared globally and in style. With the second chapter unveiled in Seoul, the event drew a star-studded line-up including Hwang In Youp, Arin, Jung Yong-hwa and Girls’ Generation’s Yuri, who walked us through her outfit for the special evening. Anchoring the collection are sumptuous puffer jackets crafted with this technology, finished with a bold faux-shearling collar available in shades such as olive green (our favourite), classic black and an on-trend brown-on-brown.
As for the rest of the line-up, it is a refreshing departure from the usual muted tones of seasonal wear. With a sophisticated range of jewel tones, highlights include a cropped bomber jacket in a deep plum, a preppy tweed co-ord that will let you live out your English country dreams, and structured shirts destined to become perennial favourites. Our top pick of the entire assortment? A selection of pleated colour-panelled skirts that have quickly become a Waight Keller signature, coupled with a high-collared cotton stand shirt, which she says is the new silhouette to watch. Here, Waight Keller talks about the importance of timing in fashion, the evolution of her journey design and what it means to create for a global audience.
You took on the role of creative director of Uniqlo in 2024. What would you say this chapter has taught you about design?
I think working in this segment of the market is very interesting because it’s so immediate— you get a response straight away at the store level. Whereas in luxury, you’re about six months ahead, looking at things through a different lens because it’s runway-focused and more about the messaging. Here, it’s really about the customer; you directly receive their feedback and I enjoy that because it means you truly understand what people love and what they actually want to wear. That allows me to react and, in the next season, bring even more of that sensibility. It’s exciting from that point of view.
What I’ve observed is a real sense of personal style when it comes to Uniqlo. Customers find a piece they love and then buy it in five different colours.
Exactly, and we’ve found that with certain items. Take the Uniqlo : C Men’s Sweat, for instance—so many women have bought it. I think around 40 percent of the customers are women and it’s great because now I’m thinking, “Okay, I can design more unisex products so that both women and men can wear them.” It’s really nice when you get that kind of crossover. I love the fact that I’ve developed this philosophy with Uniqlo : C that’s really about continuity. The idea is that all the shades work together, so each collection complements the next and you can simply add a fresh piece each time. I think it gives the wardrobe greater longevity and reflects a sustainable approach to dressing as well.
You’ve previously designed for houses like Chloé and Givenchy. At Uniqlo, how has your idea of what defines great design evolved?
Now it’s very customer-centric. At Chloé and Givenchy, those houses each had a very distinct style, with different messages, of course, Chloé being more bohemian and Givenchy more couture-led. But here at Uniqlo, I’m designing for the world, which is quite fantastic in that sense. It’s incredibly diverse and I really enjoy that kind of complexity. It’s also lovely to design for different regions and different people and to see everyone enjoying the clothes and mixing and matching them in their own way.
In that vein what would you say have been some of the most rewarding and challenging moments in this journey?
The rewarding part is when things sell out; you think, “Yes, I got it right!” The challenge for me is always in the editing. As a designer, you come up with so many different ideas, but there’s only a certain number of pieces that can go into the store. So I have to be really strict about identifying the key items, the ones that will create the strongest looks for the season.
“But here at Uniqlo, I’m designing for the world.”
LifeWear centres on quality and comfort in everyday style. How do you personally interpret LifeWear now that you’re shaping both the main line and Uniqlo : C?
LifeWear, for me, is really about every aspect of life. I think about designing for the person who goes to work and wants something a little more formal or chic to wear, but who can also pair that same piece with a hoodie on the weekend and have it work in a completely different way. It’s for the student, the nurse, the mother—people from all walks of life. And if you think about all the different parts of the world, we’re designing for the tropics as well as for cold weather in places like Canada. It’s exciting to weave that breadth into the design philosophy and that’s also where the technology really comes into play.
Given that your role involves designing for such diverse climates, what have you considered specifically for the tropics?
I think the key elements are breathability and lightness. Especially in this collection, I focused a lot on shirts. For women, there are two main silhouettes. One has a curved body and sleeve, with a slightly cropped shape that sits away from the body, which makes it feel fresh and airy. The other has a high collar and a boxier fit, so depending on your style preference, both give that sense of an easy, breezy silhouette. I think those pieces work really well even in very humid climates. These are things you have to experience personally—we test everything ourselves, then feed back to the team.
Where does Uniqlo : C sit within the broader LifeWear story in terms of innovation, silhouette and price positioning?
Our pricing is just slightly higher than the main line and that’s because I’m pushing the envelope in terms of quality and silhouette. There are more details, cutting-edge technology and many of the beautiful finishes I love from my luxury background. For example, there’s a lightweight block-tech jacket with laser-cut pockets and a beautifully seam-sealed zip. These are the kinds of details that are sometimes too expensive to include in the main line. With Uniqlo : C, I’m offering a slightly more premium design that brings more style and creativity.
Could you take us through your interpretation of a perfectly styled outfit?
I would say that this season, for women, my go-to is the high collared shirt. It looks especially great with pants, particularly the culottes, which is what I was wearing yesterday. The elasticated back of the culottes means the front looks clean, but they’re really comfortable and wearable all day. And then, of course, there’s always the finishing touch—a jacket. It could be a 3D-style jacket [in] a new blend that gives the same effect [as wool] but is much lighter and doesn’t have that stiff woolly feel. Alternatively, I often layer with one of the beautiful cardigans, which is another favourite of mine to pop on top.
People often say that fashion is as much about timing as it is about design. In your fashion journey, how much would you say timing plays a role?
Oh, it’s huge, especially now because Uniqlo is always trying to capture trends as they’re happening. Even though we’re not a high-trend brand churning out countless ideas, we’re aiming to perfect the right ones. That’s really been my focus over the past year. You’ll see it in pieces like the baggy curved pants and baggy curved sweatpants. These have become signatures and have aligned perfectly with the season’s trends. The colours, too, are all beautiful, rich tones. I had been feeling them for a while, then started introducing them last season and they sold out immediately.
What are your goals and next steps for the brand?
I’m definitely moving in a slightly different direction next season and I’ve already started working on the ad campaigns for that, which will roll out in a few weeks. You’ll also get to see a little secret for the next season—we’ll be relaunching all the eyewear.
