Vintage and archival fashion is hotter than ever. This year, fashion held a mirror to our growing social interest in preserving and rewearing clothing. As Gen-Z counts environmentalism among one of its most important values and the global resale market is expected to surpass $350 billion by 2027, this year’s emphasis on recycling looks is only the beginning. (We can all but certainly expect much more of where this came from at next year’s Met Gala.)
Archival pieces not only underscore the favour for environmentalism, they also point to one of 2023’s hottest trends: singularity. Now, in an era marked by break-neck fast fashion and algorithmically informed personal style, having a one-of-one piece—or, at the least, an incredibly rare one—is a status symbol in itself.
This year, the stars showed us their commitment to rewearing looks from the archives, scouring old Chanel, Prada, Mugler, and beyond. Some wore famous outfits, like Olivia Rodrigo’s sequinned Todd Oldham miniskirt, while others broke out previously under-the-radar pieces like Kendall Jenner’s late-’90s Gaultier. Some even rewore looks from their own past, like Claudia Schiffer, who dug through her own treasure trove of fashion to find a 1994 Gianni Versace metallic miniskirt. Many turned to specialty vintage sourcers and dealers, finding their gems at Pechuga, Aralda, and Tab.
Naomi Campbell used the archives to honour Karl Lagerfeld at the Met Gala, while Lily-Rose Depp turned Erewhon into a runway for her vintage Gaultier. Below, see some of our favourite archival fashions from 2023.
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Olivia Rodrigo in fall 1994 Chanel at the 2023 Met Gala after party.
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Amal Clooney wore fall 2000 Christian Dior by John Galliano to the 2023 DVF Awards in Venice, Italy.
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Hailey Bieber celebrated her birthday in fall 1998 Thierry Mugler couture.
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Zendaya in spring 1993 Prada at the 2023 NAACP Awards.
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Megan Thee Stallion in spring 1997 Paco Rabanne for The Hollywood Reporter’s Power Stylists dinner.
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Claudia Schiffer wearing fall 1994 Versace during Milan Fashion Week.
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Olivia Rodrigo celebrated the release of her sophomore album, Guts, in spring 1995 Todd Oldham.
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Kendall Jenner in Paris wearing fall 1997 John Galliano.
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Lori Harvey attended the Renaissance premiere in fall 1989 Thierry Mugler couture.
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Lily-Rose Depp went out for lunch in vintage Jean-Paul Gaultier.
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Rooney Mara at the Academy Awards in 2008 Alexander McQueen.
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Naomi Campbell in spring 2010 Chanel couture at the 2023 Met Gala.
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Kylie Jenner wearing spring 1992 Prada in Milan.
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Anne Hathaway in spring 1993 Valentino at the British Fashion Awards.
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Hailey Bieber in a Dior by John Galliano minidress.
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Kendall Jenner in spring 1988 Alaïa in Paris.
This article was first published in Vogue.com.
