What’s new and exciting in the world of skincare? Innovation is happening all the time, whether in terms of new ingredients to watch out for, or tools that bring clinic-quality treatment straight to your home. But where to start? Below, Vogue speaks to the experts to break down the biggest rising skincare trends.
This year has seen a shift towards making thinking about the skin on our arms and legs more of a priority. “It’s great to see more active ingredients making their way into body care products,” says consultant dermatologist, Dr Anjali Mahto. “For example, body creams that are formulated with retinoids will help address some of the signs of ageing, and I expect we’ll see more using active ingredients, like AHAs, as time goes on.” Whether blemish-busting or brightening, there is a formula for every body concern.
How many of us have suffered a skincare spillage whilst travelling? Luckily, powder formulas (which are designed to be mixed with water) are having a moment, and they’re infinitely easier to transport than their liquid counterparts. “I think we’re going to see many more powder-to-foam and capsule skincare products coming to market,” says facialist Michaella Bolder. “Not only do they offer intelligent skincare ingredients, but many of them are more environmentally friendly too—which is something we should all be more aware of.”
Chanel’s No°1 De Chanel Powder-to-Foam Cleanser and Tatcha’s Rice Polish are great choices for a gentle exfoliation and cleanse.
Menopause-proof your skin
During the perimenopause, skin becomes much drier and collagen begins to deplete, so finding the right skincare that works to hydrate and soothe is key. “When you get into perimenopause, oestrogen—which helps to regulate the sebum levels in your skin—decreases, which is why skin starts to severely dry out,” explains biochemist and cosmetic scientist, Nausheen Qureshi. “A lot of women experience sensitivity because their skin is so dry, or they get red and spotty.”
One trend set to be huge in the skincare world is products geared specifically towards skin conditions at this pivotal life stage—namely, those that employ humectants, emollients and occlusives, like glycerin, hyaluronic acid and ceramides.
What Qureshi and Dr Mahto both point out is that customers reaching this life stage don’t actually need to use formulas marked in the “menopause” category. “It does make it easier for the consumer to understand what to buy, but I need to stress that there are hundreds—if not thousands—of existing products that cater well to those experience menopausal skin symptoms,” says Dr Mahto.
Souped-up home devices
By now, you’re probably more than acquainted with a gua sha and ice globes, so you’ll be pleased to hear that there are some exciting new home devices en route that promise to up the ante on your skincare routine even further. A prime example? The TheraFace Pro, which employs the percussive therapy that made the Theragun a go-to amongst gym-goers, alongside light therapy, microcurrent and cryotherapy technology, to boost your overall skin health.
“I advocate using LED light at home—it helps with skin healing and support, especially if you have a damaged skin barrier,” says skincare expert Dija Ayodele. “You have to use them consistently—do it every day and you will see results.”
For some time now, the word on everyone’s lips has been tretinoin. A prescription-strength retinoid, it is more concentrated than other forms of vitamin A, such as retinol, and boosts cellular turnover, treats acne and smooths the skin. It’s brilliant if your skin needs it, but Ayodele warns that she has noticed an uptick in visits from patients with compromised skin, after being prescribed it in error online. “Everyone wants to use it! And it’s now easier to obtain online,” she says. “The thing with tretinoin is if you don’t need to be on it, you shouldn’t be on it. I would say it is for people who have pustular, painful acne—and this should be overseen by a dermatologist. Instead, I recommend 90 per cent of my clients use retinaldehyde.”
Look after your lips
Lip balms have had a revamp and now offer so much more than just hydration. Take Bareminerals’ Phyto Retinol Lip Treatment, which employs a plant-based retinol to smooth fine lines and plump. Not to mention, U Beauty’s The Plasma Lip Compound, a volumising formula that reshapes and contours in only four weeks. Impressive stuff.
Get your minerals
You might ingest a cocktail of vitamins every day, but do you apply them topically? Post-pandemic, Qureshi predicts we’ll be paying more attention to how we can supplement our skin from the outside, which is why minerals—including zinc, magnesium, copper and iron—will be big in skincare. “These are ingredients that help skin cells to communicate, which renders the product more effective,” she says. “You’ll find a lot of these minerals in products that contain ingredients from the sea, such as seaweed, because plants like this contain every mineral.”
This story originally appeared on British Vogue.