The adage of the devil being in the details is very much apparent with this nail trend. That’s right, we’re talking about Russian manicures; the ridiculously smooth, neat nail look that has likely made its way onto your radar. A favourite amongst Hollywood bigwigs in the vein of Hailey Bieber, Zendaya and Kate Moss, it sets itself apart thanks to its focus on technique. Rather than a specific colour or design, Russian manicures are all about filing down the cuticles and shaping it without water.
“A Russian manicure is actually a dry manicure technique that is focused on precision as well as keeping your nails healthy. While it’s relatively new to some in Singapore, it has actually become very common and widely trusted across Europe, the US, and other parts of the world,” explains Nurisat Sulaimanova, founder and nail artist at NS Nail Studio. “Yes, we don’t soak your hands or feet in water. Instead, we use an electric file with very fine diamond bits to gently clean away dead skin and clear out the cuticle area. It takes more time and skill, but it leaves the skin around the nail looking very clean compared to a classic manicure.”
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Intriguing as this might sound, it does beg the question: are there any risks that come with trimming your cuticles, for one? And is this something that is suitable for everyone? The Vogue Singapore beauty team answers your burning questions with the help of a licensed professional, below.
How does a Russian manicure differ from a typical gel manicure?
“The main difference is how we prepare the skin and build the nail. A lot of people love the traditional ‘spa’ feel of soaking their hands and feet in warm water, which we understand because it feels relaxing. But from a technical point of view, soaking is actually not great for your nails,” reports Sulaimanova. “Your nail plate will absorb water and swell up. If you apply gel on a swollen nail and the nail shrinks back to its normal size a few hours later, it will cause it to lift and chip faster.”
Soaking is also known to soften the skin of the cuticle, which increases the likelihood of accidental cuts and abrasions. “On top of that, water basins add a potential hygiene risk if they are not properly sanitised between clients. By keeping everything 100% dry, we avoid these issues. Plus when it is dry, it makes it easier to spot dead skin and remove it safely,” adds Sulaimanova. “The precision of the e-file allows us to clear out the cuticle pocket cleanly and safely. This means we can apply the gel polish slightly under the cuticle line, so you don’t get a growth gap just after a few days. We don’t just layer on colour either; we use a builder gel to shape the nail and make it stronger, so it won’t bend or break as easily.”
What are the benefits of a Russian manicure?
- Longer-lasting wear
- Bolstered nail health
- A supremely clean, polished look
By longer-lasting, Sulaimanova means four to five weeks. “This is because we don’t use manual tools that can leave rough edges or cause hangnails. The electric file smoothly removes the dead skin, and when the polish eventually grows out, it grows out evenly and symmetrically,” she states. “Long-term nail health is another benefit. Classic manicures often rely on manual scraping or chemical acetone soaking, which can damage and weaken the nail plate over time. Because we avoid that and work waterless, it gives people with weak, damaged, or even bitten nails a safe foundation to gradually rebuild their nail health over time.”
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On the flip side, what are the potential risks of a Russian manicure?
- Infections
- Nail plate damage
Sulaimanova, however, is quick to clarify: “The only real risk comes down to the technician’s training, technique, and time. Because this method involves working very closely around the cuticle area, using the wrong drill speed and angle or rushing the process can easily lead to over-filing or thinning out the natural nail plate.”
Does this mean Russian manicures work for everyone?
For the most part, as long as you go to an experienced professional. “True Russian technique nail training takes about 12 to 18 months of deep technical study, whereas standard classic manicurists typically get certified after just a few weeks of basic courses,” points out Sulaimanova. “At our studio, we only hire technicians who already have a minimum of five years of experience working specifically as Russian manicurists. Even with that level of experience, they still go through additional training with us to improve their overall skills to make sure they meet our salon requirements and strict sterilisation standards.”
