There was a time when the one-piece swimsuit felt more like a punishment than a wardrobe staple. In my teens, the wedgie-inducing cling of a Speedo Endurance swimsuit, paired with a claustrophobic rubber cap, was the dreaded uniform of mixed-gender swimming lessons at my secondary school. The heady scent of overchlorinated pools still lingers in those memories. Even as an adult, I’ve often found the one-piece slightly impractical for beach days: problematic when it comes to tan lines, too warm in the heat and sometimes difficult to slip in and out of.
This summer, however, the one piece is no longer solely for swimming lanes in the public pool or sprawling out on a sun lounger. As versatile as it is flattering, the fashion set encourages you to wear your one-piece with pretty much anything. Net-A-Porter’s fashion director Kay Barron is an advocate of incorporating swimwear into your summer rotation—even when there’s no beach in sight. “As with any piece in your wardrobe, finding the right swimsuit starts with fit, comfort and the level of support that your body needs,” she tells Vogue, pointing to brands like Staud and Nili Lotan, which offer swimwear with added underwire and extra coverage.
It’s no wonder this styling trick works. Usually made with spandex and double-lined for durability, swimsuits have a built-in, Skims-like compression designed to hold everything in place, no bra required. Perfect for heatwaves when the fewer layers, the better.
Key styling references came from Miu Miu’s spring/summer 2025 show, where models wore swimming costumes in bright red, sky blue, navy and hot pink, all with contrast hems and daring cut-outs. Worn with candy-coloured lacquered skirts, oversized blazers, pleated mid-length skirts, leg warmers and peep-toe pumps—a few with additional chain belts that slung low on the hips–the contrast was deliberate and playful, proving that a classic one-piece can be easily dressed up with the right separates and accessories.
At Tory Burch’s sports-inspired show, a swimsuit was bedecked with sequin embellishments and worn with tie-up tailored trousers and insignia ballet flats—offering a more refined take on the everyday trend. Meanwhile, the Zimmerman show opened with snippets from a ’70s Aussie surf film, with the collection featuring plunging swimsuits styled with everything from floor-sweeping organza skirts to jorts and butter-yellow trench coats, later seen on Katie Holmes at fashion week. Chloé’s swimming costumes, printed with floral blooms and flamingos, were practically destined for picnics in the park when styled with gathered bloomers or high-waisted flares and grown-up jelly shoes.
But fear not, you don’t have to spend a small fortune to get in on the trend. Beloved British-Indian designer Supriya Lele’s new collection with Mango proved that beachwear can indeed be partywear, too. The line featured shimmering beach bags, sheer party dresses and a gathered cut-out swimsuit in blue high-shine fabric, which could be easily worn under the ruffled maxi skirt and styled with strappy sandals to create the ultimate summer look.
London-based brand Fruity Booty, known for its cheeky prints and cutesy cuts, has seen customers wear its swimsuits in endless ways. “With mini shorts, under loose-fitting shirts, cardis—even with tights, I think my favourite is with a pair of bloomers or a towelling skirt,” says Hattie Tennant, founder of the brand. Its one-piece offering includes a punchy leopard and playful polka dot print, which are as fitting in a festival field as they are by the beach.
Another fan favourite is Hunza G. Its original crinkle one-size-fits-all swimsuits are a holiday staple for many, including Rihanna, Hailey Bieber, Alexa Chung and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, but the sculpting seershucker fit also doubles for daily wear. “I think everyone feels their best self in a Hunza G. It really does an amazing job of sculpting on the body whilst supporting you,” says founder Georgiana Huddart. At Coachella in April, Cara Delevingne styled the brand’s best-selling swimsuit in metallic cocoa with high-waisted black shorts and an easy denim jacket.
“Swimsuits are so versatile now; they’re not boring and standard. People get really playful with them when it comes to design details,” says Inge Kotze, founder of swimwear brand Away That Day. The brand’s most popular piece, the Cannes one-piece, is perfectly plunging with a balconette neckline and two-tone colourway. “It will take you from your morning coffee, to the beach, to the night club,” she continues.
If, like me, you’re still haunted by memories of awkward, ill-fitting swimsuits, this season’s fresh take on the one-piece might be the reset you need. Whether it’s something you already own or a new addition, the one-piece is the ultimate summer multi-tasker, taking you from the beach to brunch and everywhere in between.
4 / 4
Away That Day swimsuit, $322
Available at Selfridges.
This article was originally published on Vogue.co.uk
