Niseko in the south-west of Hokkaido is the kind of adult-friendly winter playground you have always dreamed of, except in reality, it is better than the depths of your imagination. Drawing a beautifully diverse crowd of both tourists and staff, it is a wonderland of luxury hotels, powdery slopes, trendy restaurants and cosy cafes teeming with people seeking a holiday unlike any other.
The snow here in February was fine and fresh, which made for impeccable pistes and excellent ski conditions. Niseko saw record-breaking snowfall this ski season—with generous snow dumps and waist-deep snow by mid-December last year, breaking a 68-year-old snowfall record. It is, after all, known as the powder capital of Asia. My favourite mornings involved waking up to gentle snowfall and clear, azure skies, gazing out at skiers and snowboarders starting their day as I indulged in a healthy Japanese breakfast of steamed rice and grilled fish.
You can pack light too, as Rhythm Japan is your go-to for ski, snowboard or outfit rentals (Monclers included). The process is swift and seamless, as the staff work like clockwork in getting you sized up in no time. Looking for a ski or snowboard lesson? Pure Hokkaido’s passionate team of instructors ensure you are in safe hands on the slopes. Make time for a chat to your instructor, because you’ll find they have brilliant tips on their favourite haunts in Niseko.
After a rigorous day on the slopes, Niseko comes to life with a buzzing food and drink scene, which leaves most spoiled for choice. Nightlife is fabulous, with a glitzy range of local and international options, as well as an impressive number of Singaporean pop-ups such as Luke’s Alpine Club of Luke’s Oyster Bar fame, and Mandala Club, which make Niseko their home this time of the year.
Some might argue it hardly feels Japanese, given the number of international travellers and English speakers at every turn, but you can’t fault the wondrous diversity on offer. Even if you aren’t a seasoned skier, there’s never a dull moment in Niseko. When the sun sets quietly to a mesmerising dusty pink over Mount Yotei (a mini Mount Fuji), it literally does not feel like anywhere else in the world.
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Stay: Niseko Kyo
Niseko has no lack of fancy accommodation, including well-known brands in the form of Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazano and Setsu Niseko. But I was drawn to the newly-opened Niseko Kyo, a luxury boutique residence managed by The Luxe Nomad in Upper Hirafu and the only ski-in, ski-out hotel which can host groups of up to 14 people.The hotel has 22 residences, all fitted out with dreamy private onsens for a soak at any time of the day.
My two-bedroom residence was a real treat to return to. Fitted out with a soothing beige and grey palette, alongside fun pops of orange, the brief was sophisticated and contemporary. The residence was choreographed around a homely living room, a practical laundry area and a kitchenette with everything you need for simple meals. With options for one to six bedrooms, it flourishes as your home away from home, and its friendly attention to detail make it ideal for families of all sizes.
Their expert ski team are well-trained to handle your ski gear, which you can park at the ski valet and check out whenever you are ready to make a beeline for the slopes. Its ski-in-ski-out ease meant I was on the Ace Family Quad Lift within seconds of leaving Niseko Kyo—my idea of a great holiday.
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Eat: Niseko Amaya
Niseko Amaya’s Mt. Yotei Sukiyaki—piled high with decadent Hokkaido wagyu chuck and udon noodles in a bed of sweet soy sauce broth—is a dish you must try at least once in a lifetime. Each mouthful is melt-in-your-mouth tender and does a superb job of warming your insides, especially when temperatures have fallen to sub-zero outside.
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Eat: Houzuki Udon
With views of a gleaming Mount Yotei in the distance, Houzuki Udon is a fan favourite amongst locals and tourists alike. Think chewy, handmade udon served in a light, slurping broth, with your pick of tempura or fried chicken karaage. This is comfort cuisine at its best.
4 / 9
Eat: Sushi Isono
A 10-seater omakase restaurant in Niseko’s hip dining hub, Sushi Isono is our top pick for an upscale apres-ski meal. Chef Isono-san employs the freshest Hokkaido produce and expert craftsmanship to deliver an excellent selection of sushi. Their uni and chutoro sushi is divine and often raved about.
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Eat: Shirakaba by Naniwatei
A unique fusion of Niseko’s freshest greens and Hokkaido’s succulent seafood, Shirakaba by Naniwatei is the destination for quick bento box lunches or a leisurely “Taste of Hokkaido” course-meal dinner. The latter features a homely selection of sushi, hairy crab and snow crab, wagyu beef steak and a bubbling vegetable and chicken hot pot.
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Drink: Mountain Kiosk Coffee
Need your coffee fix before you hit the slopes? Thankfully, there is no lack of good coffee in Niseko. Mountain Kiosk Coffee is one of the village’s mainstays, and its cosy log cabin amidst snowy plains is a wonderful spot for people-watching.
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Drink: Omotesando Koffee
An exceptionally well-balanced espresso is what Omotesando Koffee prides themselves on, and their newest store in the pristine Niseko-Yo is committed to having you start your day right. Their Americanos will ensure your caffeine boost for the day is met.
8 / 9
Drink: Bar Gyu+
A quirky, old-fashioned bar with a fridge door as their entrance is not what you would expect in the middle of the street, yet there is often a crowd outside waiting to get in. It’s all snug and warm—with a vibey playlist— on the inside, though. You might have to squeeze your group on a tiny table, but their whisky-based cocktails are out of this world.
9 / 9
Drink: Bar Haku
You would expect to find a bar of this standard in Tokyo, but to find it in Niseko was a pleasant surprise. With award-winning mixologist Shirano at the helm, Bar Haku prides itself on superior cocktails and an exceptional whisky collection. Try his chic ice-encrusted Wa-jito cocktail, essentially an elevated mojito and features delicately herbaceous, citrus and sweet notes. Shirano puts on a show with every cocktail he makes, so be sure to enjoy it.
