In Japanese, takumi is a word that is used to refer to artisanal craftsmanship as a way of life; a ritual of sanctity that considers the life of its eventual wearer integral to the craft. A term of endearment, often surfaced when discussing one of its most storied processes: the art of its denim. Otherwise known as? Japanese denim, or more specifically Japanese selvedge denim.
After all, its story is one borne out of the pursuit of perfection. In the aftermath of World War II, American denim—instigated by the pairs of jeans left behind by soldiers who had returned home to their mother land—whipped up a mood of defiance in the 1950s. It was the sartorial epitome of freedom and self-expression, but along the way, the growing consensus was that the then-mass produced product was suffering from a drop in quality. So for a society which prided itself on its textiles, it was time to take things into their own hands. Fast forward to 1972, a textile house called Kurabo—in the now-denim mecca of Kojima—created the world’s first Japanese selvedge denim fabric and the rest is history. A result of effortful workmanship on a shuttle loom, the art of indigo dyeing and the immense detail that goes into the essential facets of a pair of jeans—think its rivets, buttons and seams—Japanese denim soon transformed into the very pinnacle of a covetable garment amid avid denim collectors and fashion folk alike.
Notably, a number of Japanese denim brands are recognised as the classic go-tos—the OG stalwarts of the craft, if you will. One of the most recognisable labels might be Evisu, one of the ‘Osaka 5’, a cluster now considered as the pioneering brands for heritage Japanese denim. Yet with knowledge of its immense craft having taken off across the globe, the current market has taken on a life of its own, with a multitude of brands to choose from. Ahead, a Vogue-approved curation of brands to procure your own set of Japanese denim, many of which are available at dedicated multi-brand denim store Hinoya; all offering exceptional attention to detail; an array of customisable options; the opportunity to own a piece of artisanal craft you can truly call your own.
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Momotaro Jeans
Momotaro, also known as ‘peach boy’, is a name drawn from a famous piece of Japanese folklore. Completely made of Zimbabwean cotton, the storied brand originates from denim capital Okayama, Japan and references its fabled origins through its signature pink selvedge line and peach logo. A combination of quality construction and timeless narrative, it is also home to a variety of ‘labels’—copper, vintage, battle and gold—that caters to various price points and preferences.
Momotaro Jeans Aoyama, Ao Bldg 2F, 3-11-7 Kita-aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
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Oni Denim
Back in the ‘60s, Masao Oishi played an integral role in the first Japanese jeans brand, Canton Jeans. Previously an employee at Levi’s Jeans, it was hard to ignore Oishi’s impact on the Japanese denim industry. So he birthed Oni Denim, which has since achieved its own range of textures, weaves and finishes, from a slubby denim to irregular weaves. All of which have earned recognition for its unique and peerless approach to denim.
Oni Denim is stocked at the Hinoya head store in Tokyo. 6-10-14 Taito-ku Ueno Tokyo, Japan
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Pure Blue Japan
When it comes to the art of aizome, or indigo dyeing, Pure Blue Japan has certainly dipped its toes in it all. For some denim enthusiasts, the unique character of a pair of slubby denim jeans (one it is known for) is one that is covetable for its texture alone. Set up in Okayama under the vision of Kenichi Iwaya—who had been interested in crafting interesting fabrications—the label has earned a reputation for its distinctive fades and the masterful way in which its denim is naturally treated.
3-31-20 Jingumae Shibuya-ku Tokyo Japan.
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Studio D’Artisan
One of the greats. As one of the original ‘Osaka 5’ alongside Evisu and Warehouse and Co., Studio D’Artisan is emblematic of the honed craft—one that melds tradition with the aspiration towards modernity. Adapting from the shapes and finishing of vintage American workwear, it was the consistent dedication to high-quality fabric and craftsmanship using the finest cottons on traditional shuttle looms that stood out to many and established itself as a leading label in the denim landscape.
Studio D’Artisan 6 Chome−13−1, Jingumae, Shibuya 〒150-0001 Tokyo
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Samurai Jeans
Innovation, a meticulous approach to detail and a definitive name for heavyweight denim. Such is the legacy of Samurai Jeans, first established in 1997. Borrowing its ethos from hard-earned status of the samurai from the Sengoku era, the label prided itself on its craft; introducing novel details and modern cuts to the market. From wagyu leather patches to the incorporation of Japanese symbology and the cultivation of its own cotton in the Hyogo prefecture, Samurai Jeans has certainly earned itself a cult following for good reason.
Bears’ Tokyo 2-9-3 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Shimokitazawa K Building 1F
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Betty Smith
If it’s a more experiential approach you’re on the lookout for, then Betty Smith is your girl. Rather than pick a pair off the shelf, the factory-style workshop will give its wearer the opportunity to pick out every single detail, from its wash and cut to the colours and designs of its patches, rivets and buttons. A custom pair to take home as the ideal souvenir, no doubt.
2 Chome−4−7, Ebisunishi, Shibuya, 〒150-0021 Tokyo, Japan
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Iron Heart
Straight-laced in nature, Iron Heart is the favourite for those looking for genuine workwear material. Creating durable denim made to last, this heritage craft brand carries a variety of cuts, as well as a range of signature indigo washes, from the lighter, more breathable 14oz denim to the stiffer, heavyweight finish of the 25oz.
733-19 Utsukimachi, Hachioji, Tokyo 192-0024, Japan
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Warehouse & Co.
An institution that stands on its own. Yet another one on the ‘Osaka 5’ list, the label has always been consistently dedicated to its motto: the faithful reproduction of authentic vintage garments. Uncompromising on its quality and diligent in its pursuit of utmost quality, Warehouse & Co. is held in high regard for its excellent craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail. Think reproductions of original vintage workwear which elevates the standard of Japanese selvedge denim to its pinnacle.
1 Chome−29−8 1F Ebisunishi, Shibuya, 〒150-0021 Tokyo, Japan
