Show review in a sentence: With humour, colour and jolting outerwear, Loewe continues its run as one of fashion’s most exciting houses.
Designers: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
Location: Esplanade Saint-Louis
Jack and Lazaro have really found their stride at Loewe. The layer of their inspiration is in the idea of optimism and humour, sentiments that have long laced the Spanish brand. It’s the sort of label that carries intellect with the elusive idea of happiness in fashion and that momentum places it among one of the hottest brands right now. Today’s collection had lots of punchy colour, layers, latex and shearling; it was all about sportswear.
What really worked in their favour was the fact that they didn’t try to overhaul all the things that have made Loewe so beloved: the quirkiness, the off-kilter everyday basics and of course the wearability. You’re not about to find heels that you can’t quite walk in here but you just might find a scuba jacket with all the level of sophistication needed of a beautiful luxury creation.
Framing the show were the creations of Cosima von Bonin who made one-of-a-kind pieces that littered the yellow show space from fun whales to looming puppies—a touch of playfulness that made way for an equally lively offering. This is the question the designers are asking: “A finite game is played for the purpose of winning, an infinite game for the purpose of continuing the play. What is fashion but an open field for endless creative play?”
This was such an excellent showcase of outerwear. There was an assortment of functional parkas, exaggerated cropped hoodies with shearling twirling out of the hood and patchworked pieces but the real stars were the pillow-like long coats that swirled around the neck and cinched again at the waist, cocooning the body as the models walked. All leather might be daunting but the short dress versions of leather coats were actually a nice touch for those looking for something quintessential for the brand in our weather.
Another favourite of mine were the stringy dresses that bounced at the skirt, the strands swaying and flicking with every step down the runway. Shown in bright colours and layered over sheer bases with tights and practical shoes they added a playful sense of movement to the lineup and brought a light, kinetic finish to the show.
This new era of Loewe is delectable and sartorially delicious and I for one can’t wait to fill my plate.
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