Since she was appointed creative director in 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri has looked to infuse a sense of modernity into the traditional pillars of Christian Dior. She has persisted—and largely succeeded—in bringing fresh light to the house through an unabashed pursuit of championing the strong and feminine. Sharp lines, houndstooth prints and luxurious, flowy tulle are just three of the design tropes that have become synonymous with the Italian designer.
For Dior’s spring/summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection, Chiuri once again looked at redefining the contemporary woman, this time through an introspective on the relationship between the past and the future. The show took place at the tranquil Jardin des Tuileries, Dior’s trademark location, a picturesque enclave situated between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde in Paris. As always, it proved dreamy and idyllic, a sharp contrast to the graphic set that awaited show attendees.
This season, the house invited Elena Bellantoni, a prolific Italian visual artist best known for her video graphy and installations that challenge one’s identity and otherness, to design the set. And confronted she did, with a bold pop art display that occupied the walls surrounding the room. Titled ‘Not Her’,the installation’s backdrop was an unapologetic shade of neon pink contrasted with marigold yellow, emblazoned with kitschy collages and bold slogans that read ‘Your body is poetic/Your body is political’. It was a rally for emotion and support, an obvious one that questioned the idiosyncrasies of womanhood in current times.Chiuri is known to often reference the risk-taking woman—female figures seen as outsiders within their respective communities—and this was once again present in the paper cutouts that made up the boards for the displays.
Sheer fishnet and crochet dresses kicked off the collection, with strips of organza that started at the shoulders down to the feet. It made for interesting texture and layering, boasting a wispy yet highly intricate construction that encapsulated the house codes. They were quickly followed by a selection of classics in the form of barely there dresses, structured blazers and pleated skirts. The iconic Dior Bar jacket made its seasonal return with boxy shoulders and a cinched waist. Poplin dress shirts with lobbed-off sleeves provided an unorthodox take on a timeless wardrobe staple, asymmetry that was not novel but notably a surprise.
A focal point was the treatment of fabrics, an added level of detail to a house already lauded for its savoir-faire and craftsmanship. Celestial imagery reminiscent of the moon, sun and other fantastical elements were constructed from fine embroidery. At the same time, unfinished hems on the outerwear, distressing on knitwear and playful denim washes highlighted a raw beauty in ruggedness. Colours were monochromatic for the most part, with the occasional shade of ash and chamomile thrown in the mix.
On the accessories front, many house signatures returned in updated fabric renditions. The emblematic Lady Dior and Toujours bags were offered in Tour Eiffel crinkled calfskin and crinkled Macrocannage calfskin respectively, while the ever-popular Dior Book Tote saw a recurring floral motif that was also present in several of the pleated skirts. For those searching for something new, the Dior Jolie boasts a squarish top handle and rounded leather flap with gold CD hardware, making it the ideal work companion. Both pieces reference archival designs and are set to be new favourites.
Chunky combat boots with back-facing buckles graced the feet of models, lending a masculine edge to the otherwise delicate ensembles. Another noteworthy mention would be that a majority of the bags were in black. Solemn yet timeless, it was perhaps an attempt at moving away from trends and expectations.
This season was also evidence that Chiuri’s connection to founder and couturier Christian Dior was deeper than simply following in the visionary’s footsteps. Dior himself was remembered for revolutionising post-war fashion through an introduction of the now-iconic New Look in 1947, with his tenure responsible for uplifting and raising the morale of many women. In similar ways, the current version of Dior—Chiuri’s mood board for the brand and working women in society today—has certainly reimagined a uniform of sorts, one that is relevant to the new age we live in.
Every few decades, fashion undergoes a renaissance as it says farewell to old ideas and welcomes a new zeitgeist. In a collection filled with plenty of micro-references, one thing remains clear: Chiuri’s vision to advocate for women remains uncompromised and her collections continue to be an anthem fora sentiment that must not go unnoticed.
For more information on the spring/summer 2024 collection, visit Dior’s official website here.
The March ‘Dualism’ issue of Vogue Singapore is available for sale online and in-store from March 2024.
