The maligned narrative surrounding acids are abating by the day, where consumers are wising up to the potency of at-home chemical peels, glycolic toners, AHAs and more. Of course, it should be noted that said products have to be utilised appropriately and in the right concentrations to achieve optimal results, which is where more awareness is still needed. The widespread availability of resources in the vein of skincare Reddit forums and YouTube videos aren’t entirely helpful in this regard, seeing how testimonials vary according to an individual’s experience. Lucky for you, this is where Vogue Singapore comes in. We’ve reached out to a skin expert to answer all your burning questions with regard to the buzziest ingredients in the skincare sphere—which, as of late, has been azelaic acid.
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The star ingredient of cult-favourite products such as The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid 10 Percent Suspension Brightening Cream as well as Paula’s Choice 10 Percent Azelaic Acid Booster, it has been touted as a skincare powerhouse comprising antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. Beyond that, it is also credited to be safe and suitable for a variety of complexions, where it effectively eases the effects of persistent inflammatory ailments—or so people claim.
We got Dr Rachel Ho, Medical Director of La Clinic, to weigh in, detailing the potential ramifications of incorporating the ingredient into your regime as well as the best products to try should you be looking to leap upon the bandwagon. See it all, below.
What is azelaic acid, exactly?
“Azelaic acid is a type of acid that is naturally occurring in wheat, barley and rye. It has several benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in skincare for addressing several dermatological conditions. It also has anti-inflammatory benefits, so users with sensitive skin will find azelaic acid agreeable for their skin, as opposed to active ingredients which can be harsher on the skin,” Dr Ho states. “As a multi-tasking ingredient that also works for sensitive skin, it is one of the easiest active ingredients for users to start using.”
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Tell us about the benefits of azelaic acid.
It is primarily used to reduce occurrences of acne as well as to clear up current breakouts, as outlined by Dr Ho. “It has antibacterial effects against C. acnes, the bacterial culprit in pimples. It also reduces inflammation which propagates acne lesions,” she elucidates. And that’s not all. Azelaic acid blocks one of the key enzymes in the formation of hyperpigmentation (e.g. melasma) called tyrosinase, which means it can be utilised to lighten post-inflammatory marks.
Redness, irritation and swelling in skin are also improved with its continuous use, which is why it is typically used to treat conditions such as rosacea. Lastly, it rejuvenates the skin thanks to its exfoliating function that sheds dead and older skin, allowing for newer and younger cells to surface at an accelerated rate.
Are there any potential side effects to look out for?
“It is generally very safe with azelaic acid—side effects are very rare,” Dr Ho says. “There is a very small risk of irritant contact dermatitis, which presents as redness and hypersensitivity.” What’s more, it is safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding, while BHAs and retinoids are not.
Is there an optimal way to integrate azelaic acid into your routine safely?
For those dealing with acne or hyperpigmentation, it is recommended that you start using azelaic acid as a spot treatment over the affected areas. If there isn’t any form of reaction such as redness or stinging, then it is considered safe to apply on larger areas or the whole face subsequently. Dr Ho counsels that azelaic acid is best used in either a serum or moisturiser. “I tend to recommend pairing azelaic acid with other ingredients that fortify the skin barrier to reduce any risk of irritation,” she continues. “Examples of these ingredients are ceramides and essential lipids.”
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What are the best azelaic acid products to try?
“A powerful azelaic acid cream called Skinoren has worked well for me,” Dr Ho claims. Comprising 20 percent azelaic acid, it effectively soothes irritation and brings down mask-induced acne within two weeks, though it is only available for purchase once you’ve obtained a doctor’s prescription for it.
There’s also Paula’s Choice 10 Percent Azelaic Acid Booster, which harbours a lightweight gel texture that can be safely layered with other serums and/or moisturisers. It is designed to smooth bumpy texture; calm redness; as well as steadily fade post-breakout marks, with the inclusion of salicylic acid within its formula also ensuring that pores are routinely unclogged and appear smaller.
For those suffering from severe cases of acne, Tula Skincare’s Acne Clear It Up Acne Clearing + Correcting Gel is a prime pick. Its blend of probiotic extract, azelaic acid, salicylic acid as well as niacinamide effectively banishes pimple-causing bacteria while also helping brighten the look of marks left by breakouts.
