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Look 22
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Look 25
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Look 28
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Look 42
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Look 62
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Look 72
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By Desmond Lim
3 May 2024
Vogue Singapore's incisive runway review for the Chanel cruise 2025 show in Marseille
The show at a glance: The vigour of the city portrayed through Chanel cruise 2025.
Designer: Virginie Viard
Location: MAMO centre d’art de la cité Radieuse, Marseille
The vibe: Perhaps the most underrated city in the South of France, Marseille is a melting pot of culture, art, and history underscored by a rambunctious streak, with its streets covered in graffiti. Featuring nimble dancers dressed in a decidedly youthful Chanel cruise 2025 collection, the pre-show trailers showcased explosive sequences that paid homage to the rigor of athleisure and the allure of the city.
The vision: The intended contrast of having the entire collection set against the grey brutalist backdrop of the rooftop at Centre d’art de la cité Radieuse was quickly thwarted by a persistent drizzle, prompting a move indoors. As we sat in the hallway with its pop-coloured doors lining the entire stretch, I witnessed some of my personal predictions come to fruition, such as lightweight hoodies and scuba diving body suits worn under classic offerings of tweed jackets and open crochet knits. Proportions varied from Viard’s classic above-the-knee mini-skirts and Bermuda shorts to flouncy patchwork lace dresses. The collection’s footwear stayed practical, with court shoes resembling wetsuit booties, while the addition of white platform beach sandals lent a casual charm.
What to shop from the collection: While some looks proved foreign to the untrained eye, the charm of Chanel stems from the fact that each item, when taken apart, possesses a transformative quality. Take, for instance, a shimmery jade green coat dress (look 22) that made its appearance midway through the show, featuring mosaic embroidery for pockets. When styled over a pair of sheer silk trousers, it is bound to effortlessly transition from day to night. As an enthusiast of all things shiny, I couldn’t help but admire the glistening floral slip dress adorned with crystals (look 19). In that same vein, a full denim ensemble, featuring a scuba hoodie worn under a playsuit (look 42), sparked inspiration for a multitude of styling options when deconstructed. Finally, in terms of accessories, the white beach sandals in terry cloth stood out. Much like the thongs introduced in Chanel’s spring/summer show, these casual footwear options have the ability to infuse a sense of ease into an otherwise serious ensemble, evoking an effortless and chic vibe—truly embodying the spirit of Chanel.
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Edition