The ancient tradition of Noh is one of the oldest-surviving art forms not only in Japan, but the world. Dating back to at least the 14th century, this theatrical performing art stands out due to its use of intricately carved wooden face masks. Worn by Noh performers, these masks are key to expressing complicated storylines and emotions on stage.
Noh masks are fascinating to look at even off the stage. At first glance, they may appear static—but you soon realise they have an enigmatic ability to transform. Made from Hinoki, each mask is skilfully painted to depict a particular character, its expression changing with the angle of the performer’s head and the way the light hits its features. With nothing but a tilt to the shadows or a sweep towards the light, it goes from joyful to forlorn, embarrassed to conniving.
In a small studio in Kyoto sits 77-year-old Mitsue Nakamura, a master artisan who has been learning the art of making Noh masks since the 1980s. When she first started, Nakamura had been one of a small handful of women in the field. Today, she has a team of apprentices who are all female—a radical difference for a craft which was once passed down only from father to son.
After a dizzying tour of the vast array of Noh masks in varying stages of completion that line Nakamura’s studio, one of her apprentices gives us a live demonstration of how Noh masks are made. She begins to chisel away at a block of Hinoki as we watch in rapt attention, marvelling at how difficult it is to reconcile the pale slab of wood the masks start out as with their elaborate final forms. The entire process ordinarily takes close to a year, but Nakamura is able to go through it in under a month.
They may now be largely be used ornamentally, Nakamura tells us, but purists will know that the true test of a Noh mask is how it performs on stage. Noh stages are unique in their own right—distinguished by their distinctive roofs and four columns, which play the important role of helping performers gauge their location on stage through the narrow eye holes in the masks.
A 10-minute drive from Nakamura’s studio is the site of one such stage. Newly built, this Noh stage sits inside of Banyan Tree Higashiyama—the first Banyan Tree hotel in Japan and one of Kyoto’s most luxurious new openings.
Located in the historic Higashiyama district and tucked away from the bustle of tourists, the secluded property is the only hotel in Kyoto to have its own Noh stage. Designed by Kengo Kuma, the structure is an altogether novel platform for an ancient craft. A vision of tessellated panels and striking wooden eaves, it conjures the essence of a traditional Noh stage infused with a delicate, modern slant. Embracing it is a lush bamboo forest, a private patch of which the hotel uses to host early morning meditation sessions.
Kuma is also behind the architecture of the hotel at large, drawing from traditional Japanese building methods to create a minimalist haven characterised by warm wood and sweeping windows. Nestled on a hilltop, the property blends nicely into the serene gardens that surround it, reflecting Kyoto’s quiet beauty through understated design.
Guest rooms, designed by Yukio Hashimoto, feature tatami mat floors and chabudai-inspired sitting areas, evoking a ryokan-like sensibility. These traditional elements are woven seamlessly with creature comforts like an enormously plush bed, and fully stocked coffee station and mini bar.
Step into the bathroom and the first thing that commands your attention is a large Hiba bathtub, the distinctive aroma of the wood permeating the space. In a select number of rooms, the water that comes splashing through is from a natural hot spring, meaning that you have your own private Onsen to use at the end of every day. Panoramic views range from a serene bamboo garden to the Noh stage, providing the perfect backdrop for a languid, steamy soak.
The dining programme at Banyan Tree Higashiyama is a clear highlight—especially if you are passionate about Japanese cuisine. With seasonality at the forefront of its offerings, the hotel’s signature restaurant, Ryozen, serves up elaborate platters of traditional Japanese breakfast each morning, and an exclusive kaiseki course menu in the evenings. Each dish stands out for its simplicity, highlighting local ingredients—including fresh vegetables and miso from Kyoto—with restrained cooking and refined plating.
The most exciting offering, however, is no doubt the cooking class chef Sinya Akizaki and his team run upon request. Here, guests have the rare opportunity to get up close and personal with Japanese culinary traditions. You’ll find out the differences between different varieties of miso, or just how the chef gets his dashi to be so incredibly satisfying. (The answer, as I now know, lies in the five-year aged Rishiri kelp and signature tuna and bonito flake blend he uses to brew the umami-filled broth.) You might even get to try your hand at assembling a maki roll under the chef’s guidance—but be warned, it’s not as easy as it may look.
One of the hotel’s most prized traits is its access to the rare Higashiyama Onsen hot spring, which guests can experience in a variety of ways during their stay. Natural hot spring water, touted for its many wellness benefits—including boosting blood circulation and alleviating pain—is the main draw of the Banyan Tree spa. For those looking for a more traditional experience, the hotel’s gender-separated public Onsen baths will be a key attraction.
Otherwise, reserve at least three hours to fully indulge in the signature spa treatment, which combines a leisurely soak in a private Onsen and a steam bath with a full body massage to work out all the remaining tension in your body, leaving you teetering on the edge of bliss.
When you do decide to step out and explore, the hotel’s proximity to the heart of Higashiyama means that you are never out of something to eat, see or do. The historic district preserves the look and feel of feudal-era Japan with its low-sloping, cobblestoned streets and narrow lanes lined with traditional pottery stores and tea houses. For many, the first order of business would be to first visit the plethora of historic temples dotting the vicinity—the famous, UNESCO-recognised Kiyomizu Temple amongst them.
But it’s also worth just taking a stroll. You might chance upon gems like Okutan, Kyoto’s oldest tofu restaurant. Known for pots of steaming yudofu—the signature dish they have been serving since 1635—the restaurant preserves tradition perfectly through its rustic ambience. Accompanied by vegetable tempura and a range of tofu-centric side dishes (the grilled tofu with a sancho pepper-miso glaze is especially tasty), it’s a meal that is both insightful and satisfying—worth carving out an afternoon for.
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