In the storefront window of the four-storey Hermès flagship store at Liat Towers, an intriguing game of chess is underway. The sun rises atop a checkerboard floor, and the clock ticks on as chess pieces—in vibrant colours and adorned with whimsical illustrations—come to life. The installation looks like a scene out of a picture-book, but beyond its fantasy, there is more than meets the eye.
Titled ‘Checkmate at the Faubourg’, the art installation draws inspiration from the maison’s theme for 2024: The Spirit of the Faubourg. The Faubourg, of course, refers to Hermès’s iconic global flagship in Paris. In the installation, distinct architectural and decorative elements of the landmark are reimagined into lively chess pieces. The balusters of the building become pawns, as the iconic artificer on the flagship’s rooftop now takes the form of a bishop, with his horse as a knight.
This practice of transforming window displays into works of art is a long-held Hermès tradition, practised in selected stores across the world. The artist behind this particular installation is Matthieu Cossé, whose longstanding collaboration with the brand has produced works such as the Au Royaume d’Helios scarf 70 (aptly showcased as part of the window installation, as the artificer’s flags) and a striking 120-metre-long paper mural that adorns the walls of the Hermès rue de Sèvres. A versatile artist, his work mainly spans paintings and drawings across different surfaces and supports, as well as ceramics. “I see my art as a narrative. It’s always a support for telling stories,” he muses.
In town to paint the pieces and put the installation together, he shares more about his thought process behind the installation, and how the house’s philosophy resonates with his own creative practice.
Take us back to the start of your career as an artist. What were your earliest inspirations for making art?
The comics Tintin and Astérix I read when I was young were my first introduction to art drawing. In France, we have many prehistoric sites with cave drawings: Lascaux left a huge impression on me, as did the paintings in the museums of Paris, especially The Lourve and Musée d’Art Moderne.
What was your first impression when you heard the theme The Spirit of the Faubourg?
It got me thinking about the building itself. It is not an unusual building to me, though there is something lovely about it, if you think of the rooftop garden for instance. It’s very lovely and romantic in terms of architecture, but when you get to visit it, it’s almost like a labyrinth.
Take us through your thought process behind the artwork you’ve created. Why a chessboard?
The chessboard is a reference to Through The Looking Glass by Lewis Carroll, which is a book I really love. Beyond the fact that there are obvious similarities between a looking glass and a window, there’s something about a sense of being between the real world and fantasy. It was somehow reminiscent of what I experienced at the Faubourg. There is a certain kind of peculiarity, and a certain Victorian atmosphere.
Does creating work for a window like this, where it’s accessible to anybody, differ from creating work for a museum?
Yes, there’s a lightness to it, and an aspect of fun and eccentricity.
You’ve collaborated with Hermès several times over the past few years. What have these experiences been like, and how does the maison’s philosophy resonate with your own artistic practice?
My interest in decorative arts was awakened by my encounter with Hermès. When I started collaborating with the house, it offered clarity. It gave me an answer to why I drew certain patterns the way I did. The collaboration started in 2018, when I did a showcase of watercolours at a fair in Paris, and someone from Hermès came by. They then called for a meeting, and I started by doing a beach towel project. After that, I found myself wanting to continue, because it was much more interesting than I expected—the product aspect of it especially, because then, your drawing is completely transformed.
What has been the most interesting part of working on this particular project?
Teamwork. I do not often work with so many people on projects, but here, it involved the whole Hermès team. In a way, it’s another mindset, because suddenly, you feel that you’re not the only one concerned, but there was also a level of efficiency that I really appreciated.
