In recent years, subtle subversion has been a hallmark of many a beauty trend. From pouts that are boldly lined in contrasting hues, to the ’90s-esque thin eyebrow revival, the moral of the make-up story seems to be this: the finest of lines can still yield dramatic effect. Further proof in point? The art of tightlining.
Tightlining refers to the application of eyeliner to any part of your waterline. The magic lies in its adaptability. “Tightlining has been a major technique in East Asian beauty looks for years, because it’s more suited to our eye shapes,” says fashion and celebrity make-up artist Kenneth Chia. “It’s a subtle way of adding plenty of depth, and has just as much effect as [bigger, bolder liner] when done correctly.”
To be sure, though it’s a classic technique, we’ve seen an influx of intensified takes on the look. Consummate cool girls including Gabbriette, Charli XCX and Victoria de Angelis of Måneskin (all of the band’s members, to that end) prefer to smoke out their tightlined gazes with layered shadows, and frame the entire eye for an edgy, lived-in finish.
Even Sabrina Carpenter and Taylor Swift, who typically opt for more doe-eyed approaches to beauty, have sported tightlined smoky eyes at major events this year. In wider pop culture terms, the gothic make-up artistry of Beetlejuice Beetlejuice and the indie sleaze advocacy of last year’s Saltburn have also done much for the statement gaze.
Product placement
Whether you opt for a softer style or prefer to command instant attention with your tightlining, consider Chia’s advice on selecting your tools. “I recommend using a waterproof, fine-tuned gel pencil, or a really budge-proof liquid liner applied with a tiny, flat synthetic brush,” he says. “The brush’s shape can make or break this look, and I would look for one with a flat, squared off edge just like those you see for eyebrows.”
When it comes to placement, “tightlining is all about being strategic and trying out [different versions] until you find one that you love.” Also consider that “you do not need to line the entire eye to give the effect of a tight line.”
However, there are pointers to be kept in mind depending on your individual colouring and eye shape. “If black is too harsh, try a brown liner,” Chia says. He also suggests keeping your liner to your lash line if you have a smaller eye shape, whereas, “if you have bigger eyes, you can go closer to the waterline.”
Rules of application
A classic technique it may be, but tightlining isn’t familiar territory to everyone. Given the intensity it can yield, particularly if you’re lining your lower waterline or framing your full eye, the style can seem intimidating.
Chia recommends building up to more advanced products. “Start slow with a brow pencil to give lots of soft depth around the eye. It is way more forgiving when you’re still figuring out your favourite placements.”
Meanwhile, ’tis the season for some theatrics—and the same applies to those that tightline on the daily, and are seeking to amp up their look. “Really make your eyes pop with a set of coloured contacts, or smoke it out with lots of nude tones. This creates camera-ready impact that doesn’t feel overdone,” recommends Chia.
At the end of the day, there are no hard and fast rules. Tightlining is an invitation to get experimental and find what works for you, with an enticing ability to go from barely there to statement-making, and back again as you please. If current red carpet trends are anything to go by, there’s a wealth of inspiration awaiting yet.
Of his own favourites, Chia divulges, “Lately I have been obsessed with celebrity make-up artist Nina Park‘s work, which blends Asian subtlety with Western sensibility and placement styles. And on the other end of the spectrum, there is always K-beauty or the grunge revival for endless tightline inspiration.”
