For decades, queer culture and fashion have had a relationship of symbiosis. This relationship was catalysed by a desire for resonance and a longing for kinship. Through covert sartorial cues that reflected queerness, communities were formed in societies that marginalised such identities. Arguably the progenitor of this was Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde, who famously wore a green carnation on his lapel. This specific accessory remained a subtle symbol of queerness throughout Victorian times, paving the way for more representations of the LGBTQIA+ identity through fashion to come.
From the ’60s onwards, drag culture changed drastically with the advent of Crystal LaBeija, who created the house system for ball culture. The house system established structure within the community, creating more solidarity and visibility for the culture and its fashion leanings. Fueled by the Stonewalls riots, a series of demonstrations against a police raid that persecuted sexual minorities in 1969, the ’70s ushered in a new, hedonistic era of queer culture. American designers like Halston and Stephen Burrows took elements like form-fitting silhouettes and glitzy sequins from their culture into the mainstream fashion landscape. Since then, queerness’s influence on fashion has been cemented in its many facets, be it Thierry Mugler’s camp and drag references, Tom Ford’s sensual designs with sheer and leather or Jeremy Scott’s subcultural Club Kid leanings.
Then there’s the new guard, which are today’s queer designers. Jonathan Anderson’s homages to his queerness are evident in his work, from a capsule collection dedicated to drag performer Divine to collaborations with gay erotic artist Tom Of Finland. Ludovic De Saint Sernin’s kink-inspired designs are an unabashed celebration of queer sensuality. Charles Jeffrey melds his Scottish heritage with his Club Kid leanings. Olly Shinder reframes normative workwear through a queer lens by presenting it in soft fabrics.
In this web of queerness in fashion, the intersectionality of race and heritage exists beyond the Eurocentric lens often seen within the landscape. Queer ideas and narratives from Asians are a profoundly important reflection of otherness in fashion and a few brands are leading the charge.
Don’t know where to look for these labels? Below, browse Vogue Singapore‘s list of the hottest queer Asian labels right now.
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Chet Lo
Chinese American designer Chet Lo has come a long way from making knitwear at home during the pandemic. Hailing from New York City, Lo came to London to enrol in Central Saint Martins. He then graduated from its BA Knitwear course in 2020. Following the success of his innovative first collection, which featured his now iconic ‘durian spike’ designs, his work has earned him the favour of A-listers like Dua Lipa, Kali Uchis, SZA and Doja Cat and a collaboration with Charles & Keith that applied his playful spike motif on shoes, bags and accessories.
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Shawna Wu
Born and raised in Singapore and of Taiwanese descent, New York City-based designer Shawna Wu graduated from Parsons School of Design with a BFA in Fashion Design in 2017. Ever since she released her first ready to wear collection in 2020, Wu has been known for her subversive take on melding her Chinese heritage and queer identity. Her modus operandi? Melding fetishism with traditional motifs like Chinese knots to create highly desirable and club-ready pieces.
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Motoguo
Founded in 2015 by Moto Guo, Kinder Eng and Jay Perry Ang, Malaysian label Motoguo is camp exemplified. After being the first Southeast Asian label to be shortlisted for the renowned LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers in 2016, Motoguo has since then created an array of desirable collections with the same spunk and individuality that they are known for. Case in point: their latest collection entitled The Art Of Letting Go is centred around a quirky perspective of sleepwear. Think satin slip dresses with mattress tags, hoodies with a pillow structure attached to the hood and baby bibs reimagined into a cardigan.
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Chris Habana
At this point, New York City-based Filipino jewellery designer Chris Habana is a kingpin in the accessories game. Inspired by anything from sci-fi, fantasy to religious iconography, it is no wonder that Habana was the designer of choice for many of Beyonce’s Renaissance World Tour iconic headpieces and accessories for the whole of 2023. This year continues to be stunning for Habana as his statement accessories were seen in this year’s Met Gala 2024 on stars like Sabrina Harrison, Leon Bridges and Colman Domingo.
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Windowsen
Chinese label Windowsen fits into a niche that has its unique fanbase—limited and intricate pieces that bestows upon the wearer a sexy, gamified existence. The brand coins itself as being ‘alien couture’—which sums up founder Sensen Lii’s ethos just about right. Video game, sports and sci-fi references amalgamate within his clothes, alongside meticulous craftsmanship. The label’s fall/winter 2024 show in Paris was a homage to queer culture, with a Kill Bill-themed ball format opened by British drag performer Charity Kase.
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Private Policy New York
Founded by Chinese duo Haoran Li and Siying Qu, Private Policy New York specialises in genderless, club-ready wear with an ‘effortless cool’ factor. The brand has a piece for everyone, from sequin embellished garments to treated cargos. The label also seems to be in a state of evolution that is evident in its latest fall/winter 2024 collection, which introduced new, technologically driven methods of making such as 3D printing and elements of design influenced by AI prompts.
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FANG
New York City-based label FANG is peak knitwear. Before starting the label in 2021, designer Fang Guo found that traditional menswear options that were typically seen in shops did not serve to empower him as a queer individual. FANG started out from that idea and have since then cemented itself to be a sartorial vehicle of queer pride. Through showcasing sensuality with cutouts, sheer and body-hugging options, the brand has since then expanded itself to be full genderless and all-encompassing.
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