What happens when you take Louis Vuitton’s classic checkerboard design—a motif birthed in 1888, known as the Damier—and reinterpret it as a 2024 line of fine jewellery? Well, in the hands of Francesca Amfitheatrof, the maison’s super cool artistic director for watches and jewellery, the result is Le Damier de Louis Vuitton. This 12-strong contemporary collection of rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings has reimagined the now iconic geometric pattern in precious metals and stones. “It is,” enthuses Amfitheatrof, “one that transcends generations and genders. Le Damier de Louis Vuitton embodies what modern jewellery should be.”
A culture defining moment in jewellery history served as the designer’s starting point. When, in 1978, the single line diamond bracelet worn by tennis player Chris Evert flew off her wrist at the US Open, the match came to a standstill until the jewellery was found. This is how the “tennis bracelet” as we recognise it today was born. Amfitheatrof—lauded for her trailblazing shake up of fine jewellery’s traditional codes—decided to push the boundaries of this time-honoured piece. “I wanted to reimagine the movement of the classic tennis bracelet and create modern, continuous pieces that are fluid with the skin.”
Hence the Le Damier tennis bracelet. A lesson in everyday luxury, it features two sparkling rows of diamonds that come set in both yellow and white gold. That it is exquisitely crafted comes as no surprise. The fluidity to the piece however, a kind of liquid suppleness that is not usually associated with metal, is the real wow factor. The piece is created to mould perfectly around the shape of the wrist like a second skin. It’s the tennis bracelet, yes, but not as we’ve previously known it. “We have taken this dainty classic piece,” explains Amfitheatrof, “and turned it into an ‘always in motion, always on your wrist’ modern, everyday, genderless, ageless piece of jewellery with an edge. These are pieces that you never want to take off. Even when you’re naked!”
This 24/7 ethos—from the continuity of the design to the way the pieces are worn—is notable throughout the entire Damier collection. The rings, highly polished pieces set to be coveted as the new eternity bands, come in two distinct styles: one with two rows of diamonds, while the other more graphic style has four. The single round pendant, also studded with diamonds, is set on a slim yellow gold chain and the earrings, ostensibly simple yellow gold hoops, are set with diamonds in a style that references the fashion house’s signature geometry. Because, while “it’s a diamond collection, it’s not just about the stones,” the designer says. “It is really about the pattern they create. If Louis Vuitton were alive today I think he would be extremely proud of how his 1888 creation has been turned into gold and diamond jewellery. The continuity of the maison’s Damier pattern is now on your skin. It is a modern classic for today that can stay with you forever.”
Still, while Amfitheatrof is unequivocal about Le Damier’s place as a future heirloom—the stunning craftsmanship speaks to this—the sartorial approach shouldn’t be so precious or limited. “These pieces are sensual but casual. And they are for everyone.” So how to wear them? The designer doesn’t miss a beat. “Stack, stack, stack! I love the bracelets. They are so slinky and sensual and feel great on your skin, so they are great for stacking and mixing the different coloured golds and different sizes.” It’s a contemporary, inclusive take that provides a breath of fresh air in a (fine jewellery) world often stifled by tradition. For Amfitheatrof, it’s about looking back in order to look forward. “Le Damier de Louis Vuitton is the creation of a new era. It’s a modern collection, yes, but it’s designed to last forever.”
This article was originally published on British Vogue.
