The year was 2004. Throngs of sweaty bodies moved to the rapid beats of Timberland and Skrillex at Singapore’s hottest nightclub, Zouk. Today, the historic address is worlds apart from its rambunctious past with the arrival of Jiak Kim House, a modern Asian restaurant by The Brewerkz Group.
Past the doors of this 1920s conservation house lies a majestic vision. The edifice of the building is enhanced with a towering pediment, drawing the eye to its high ceiling. Rich terracotta hues warmly envelop the 120-seat restaurant, as ambient light fixtures and custom-made rattan furnishing work together to conjure a space that feels like someone’s home. It’s a transformation that would have you digging deeper in your memories to be able to reconcile as the old Velvet Underground.
The rich history of the place undoubtedly had a major hand in influencing the interiors of Jiak Kim House. It had to be old yet new, colonial yet modern. Semblances of these are seen within vintage louvred wall panels as they lie against plush built-in banquette seating. Apart from the main dining room, the restaurant also boasts a private dining room as well as an in-house floral atelier where customised arrangements can be procured.
“We wanted a streak of heritage and old-world charm. On top of it all, we wanted it to be bold. It’s a story about Singapore—of how we’ve come from backwater to today—from past and present,” says Tan Wee Tuck, managing director of The Brewerkz Group.
Tan emphasises the importance of Jiak Kim House being reflective of Singapore and the region. It’s easy to spot cultural nuances peppered everywhere, from coconut husk walls to an eclectic playlist of remastered golden hits such as local folksong ‘Chan Mali Chan’.
Naturally, the food leads a similar charge, with chef-partner Seow Tzi Qin at the helm. Seow, who has worked in both Les Amis and Tung Lok Group, navigates the bridge between fine-dining and fast casual, with innovative creations that draw from local and regional influences.
Fondly remembered classics are weaved into the starters. Tingkat of Memories presents delectable vignettes such as chilli crab kueh pie tee and otak otak stuffed with fresh fish paste and prawn chunks. Seow’s mushroom soup carries the signature heat of bak kut teh. Like a latte, he serves this piquant peppery consommé layered with a peppercorn-infused foam in a coffee cup, as mini dough fritters make perfect accompaniments on the side.
While each main imparts its own medley of flavours, all of them convey Seow’s profound understanding and appreciation of local and regional produce. The mangosteen salsa immediately springs to mind. It might be a side to the huge sambal grouper fillet, but the tropical fruit is deseeded with laborious effort, cutting through the heat from the fish with a tangy reprieve.
In the rendang dish, a triptych is served—short rib, ox tongue and oxtail that have been thoroughly stewed in spices and rendered fork tender. Crispy pavé potatoes, smoked shishito peppers and a fresh rojak salad complete the dish. On the dessert front, another local fruit, pineapple, is spotlighted in a sorbet that is infused with Moutai and covered by a silky shield of coconut jelly.
Given the F&B group’s portfolio—with a fine wine merchant under its belt—one will be spoilt for choice when it comesto vino at Jiak Kim House. The restaurant’s wine cellar is stocked with over 200 labels with a focus on French wine. Cold cuts, artisanal cheeses and steaks on the grill are also at the ready should you wish to enjoy a precise pairing. If there was a place to renew your treasured memories of yesteryear, Jiak Kim House would be it.
The April ‘Pop’ issue of Vogue Singapore is available online and on newsstands from 5 April 2024.
