The Reverso is, simply put, the watch world’s most iconic piece of art deco design. The art deco style was named in 1925 in Paris, at the Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes. Defined by angular geometry, it marked a radical shift in the decorative arts—a move away from romantic figural motifs popular in Europe. Art deco has had a particularly powerful legacy in architecture, with masterpiece buildings like the Chrysler and Empire State in New York City as prime examples.
It was in this time and zeitgeist that Jaeger-LeCoultre conceived its most emblematic watch. The Reverso, a name that comes from the Latin for ‘I turn’, was designed with a smooth, solid metal caseback for polo players. It solved a very simple, very real problem of its time: on the fast-moving polo fields, the mineral glass of wristwatches were easily shattered. Being able to turn a watch around and leave only the metal exposed made polo players’ watches far less vulnerable.
But it’s the visual and artistic environment of the art deco age that had the greatest influence on the Reverso. A refined sense of shape, with proportions that hew to the golden ratio; and details like horizontal gadroons, rectangular lines and subtle triangular lugs that draw on art deco’s love for geometry.
Jaeger-LeCoultre officially introduced the Reverso in 1931, and it has become an icon in watchmaking since. In Geneva earlier this year, the brand introduced its new models for 2025—a lineup that elaborates on and continues the Reverso story. From fine, artistic renditions that turn the blank caseback into a canvas for vivid imagination to high horological complexity, this watch proves itself endlessly versatile.
On the occasion of art deco’s centenary, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s product design director Lionel Favre tells us more about how this piece of design has had such longevity.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has focused its new collection this year on the Reverso. As the man who might know best, what is the ultimate Reverso model?
The Reverso Minute Repeater Calibre 953 embodies the union of all our savoir-faire. It showcases technical excellence through acoustic mastery, but also through the way the movement itself is treated—not merely as an assembly of gears and wheels, but as a carefully composed work of shapes and finishes. The result is a movement so beautifully executed that it’s something you want to display and admire as much for its refinement as for its mechanics.
With a collection as well-established and beloved as the Reverso, how do you approach creating novelties?
There’s no set process when it comes to envisioning the Reverso of the future. Most of the time, our ideas come from a purely artistic standpoint, where aesthetic relevance takes precedence.
Art deco is influential—in architecture, the decorative arts and design broadly—but it’s around a century old. Yet the Reverso still endures. Why is that?
That’s one of the Reverso’s greatest strengths: it was conceived with a strong sense of style. Although it was created for a sport—at the request of British polo players based in India— it doesn’t feature the typical attributes of sports watches, like crown guards or bulky protection. Its art deco design gave it a distinct identity and offered a harmonious balance of geometry and elegance that continues to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.
What are your major artistic influences?
It’s hard to pinpoint where creative influences come from as they’re often subconscious. I have a deep passion for craftsmanship in general. I’m fascinated by beautiful, well-made objects using quality materials. Horological culture is incredibly important; it allows us to highlight our expertise. To do this, you have to deeply understand all the métiers involved in crafting a watch.
The Reverso Tribute Enamel series pays homage this year to the Shahnameh. It’s a grand literary reference and perhaps a bit surprising. How did you decide to bring this piece of art into the world of Jaeger-LeCoultre?
For the beauty of the artwork and the link to horses and polo. Ferdowsi’s Shahnameh, a 10th-century masterpiece, traces Persian history through legend, from the creation of the universe to the dawn of Islam in 650 CE. Over the centuries, this epic poem of over 50,000 verses has been richly illustrated. Among the artwork, we find the first depictions of polo matches between Persian provinces. The Persians were superb horsemen and many illustrations celebrate their connection with horses.
One of the key characteristics of the Reverso style is its elegance and purity. How do you maintain this when designing Reversos with complications?
We’re constantly reflecting on the Reverso’s assets: what makes it desirable, what makes it unique. You have to understand the Reverso before trying to design something new for it—that’s key. Most of the time, we highlight existing elements. Take the Reverso Geographic, for example. We were inspired by the beauty of the fully polished case that’s seen on monoface Reversos. That polished reverse side led us to display the world-time complication in a way that preserved as much of the polished metal surface as possible.
On that note, what do you say to the idea that the Reverso is more an icon of design than high watchmaking?
It’s a matter of perspective. You’re right, the Reverso’s style speaks for itself. But I believe it’s the most versatile watch ever created. Its strength lies not only in its design but in its swivelling case, which reveals two distinct faces. This makes it a unique timepiece, capable of housing exceptional calibres and offering endless creative possibilities—both mechanical and artistic. As a designer, I am incredibly lucky to work on such an iconic piece. It’s deeply inspiring.
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