Partners have put their hearts and souls into engagement rings this year. Uniqueness has been a common theme; from spectacular gemstones to meaningful stories behind design choices. Whether bespoke or bought from a big-brand jeweller, consumers have gravitated towards rings with a difference.
Looking to the future, “quality and originality will reign supreme in 2023”, affirms Kate Baxter, founder of The Cut London. “Our customers want their jewels to be an extension of them and their personal style,” echoes London-based jeweller Ruth Tomlinson. Caroline Chalmer, CEO and co-founder of Finematter, meanwhile, acknowledges the need for practicality: “An engagement ring should last a lifetime, but it’s as important to be wearable on a daily basis.”
The way that we consume is heading in a positive direction—but of course, there’s a long way to go. More than ever, customers are prioritising responsible credentials, be it sourcing, transparent manufacturing or buying vintage over brand new.
Read on for the popular engagement ring trends to look out for in 2023 and the destinations to visit if you’ve got a ring design in mind, or require some antique jewellery know-how.
One-of-a-kind
“Cookie-cutter style engagement rings are a thing of the past,” declares Tomlinson. “People seek out unique designs that resonate with them and their own personal style, whether that be flamboyant or simple, it ultimately comes down to the thoughtful details that define the piece and speak to the wearer.” Jeweller Thelma West has seen a similar magnetism towards individuality: “My clients enjoy a lot of freedom and most choose to get involved in the creative process,” she says. “We play around with metal colours and finishes that are not very traditional, but more in the style and character of the wearer.”
Traditional engagement rings are by no means dwindling, but a large portion of proposers are becoming more adventurous with their choices, leading to a rise in completely unique, one-off styles. “People want something cool and modern that doesn’t have such a conventional connotation attached to it,” says jeweller Jessie Thomas. “I think they want something that fits with their other jewellery and general style.” Chalmer has found a “craving” for out-of-the-ordinary pieces that people can “connect with on a deeper level”. “It’s been about finding something truly special, and the joy of the discovery,” she says.
Customers are more likely to find striking pieces at vintage and antique dealers, given that certain stones and cuts “don’t exist anymore”, according to Guy Burton, director at Hancocks. “These stones are completely unique and have an extra special charm to them,” he adds.
Storytelling is central to independent jeweller Hattie Rickards’s engagement rings, meaning every element—the colours, cuts, origins of the materials and overall concept—“will be curated with consideration,” she says.
Cut above the rest
On the topic of uniqueness, “fancy shapes” are trending at Graff (Marc Hruschka, president and CEO of North America, notes that oval and emerald cuts are particularly popular). It’s a similar story at De Beers—CEO Céline Assimon has seen a growing interest in “timeless and elegant” cuts—and at Hancocks, where asscher and emerald cuts are “on the up”. “The very best of these were cut in the 1920s and 1930s,” says Burton. “I have a special love for these and have an incredible collection.” (You know where to go if his suggestions take your fancy.)
Expect to see more eye-catching multi-stone rings next year. 2022 has made way for unusual combinations—“not your traditional three-round diamond but multi-cut side stones such as half moons, trapezoids, baguettes and hearts on either side of a coloured stone,” says jeweller Sophie Breitmeyer.
Bespoke jewellery specialist Rachel Boston has witnessed piqued interest in toi et moi rings, classic trilogies, five-stone rings and rings with graphic halos: “We love these sorts of designs as they’re very playful,” says Boston. “Choosing from the myriad of different shapes and colour variations available is a fun process, and you’re likely to end up with a ring very different from anyone else.”
Better together
Selecting an engagement ring doesn’t have to be a solo sport. Historically, some couples prefer to pick together, either before or after “the question” is asked (or the discussion is had). Matthieu Brichet, Europe CEO of Graff, reports a rise in people browsing brick-and-mortar stores together, while Alexandra Samuel, antique and vintage jewellery specialist at Berganza, predicts an increasing number will choose their own engagement rings next year.
Another unconventional trend to emerge this year? “Union rings” says Rickards, who notes that all-in-one engagement rings are on the rise. “Not all clients necessarily want two rings, instead they are now commissioning one main ring which represents both engagement and wedding together in one ring.” Two birds, one stone (literally).
Refresh and rejuvenate
Tastes and preferences change, which is why some people choose to update and transform their engagement ring after a period of time. From adding new stones to re-setting, don’t be afraid to make some tweaks to your beloved ring. Ruth Tomlinson has had a number of clients who’ve requested subtle changes, including someone who wanted to make an oval solitaire ring more personal to her “after the frustration of sharing the exact same design with four of her good friends.”
Single stone impact
Sometimes, it pays to be simple. Single stones remain a favoured choice: the round brilliant diamond is still the most sought-after cut at De Beers, given that it’s a brand signature. At independent jewellers, however, customers are gravitating towards weighty gypsy-set and bezel rings, moving away from classic pronged solitaire designs. “The sleek, seamless, impactful trend is very strong right now,” explains Baxter.
“There has been a huge demand for larger stones with higher carat and clarity,” reports Orit Elhanati, who specialises in pure gold rings finished with hammering, dripping and sculpting. “During the pandemic, most clients were looking for investments, so the highest carat, the clearest stone. This year, it’s not necessarily the quality of the stone but more the size and the way I work my gold around it; how I tell their story.”
Colour story
The jewellery market as a whole has experienced an unprecedented desire for colour. People invested in mood-boosting jewels for themselves during the pandemic—sales for pick-me-up pieces skyrocketed—and engagement rings are becoming more colourful, too. “Clients have definitely become braver when it comes to choosing a coloured engagement ring,” says Tomlinson. “We’ve seen a lot of requests for specific colours rather than cuts and our customers have become more savvy to the vast variations of gemstones available, whether it be a specific tone of green sapphire or grey diamond, or a particular hue of paraiba tourmaline.”
Conscious mindset
It’s hard to ignore the environmental and ethical consequences that come with making a purchase—and jewellers are on a mission to ensure as minimal impact as possible. “Our clients always purchase pieces they see longevity in, and we try to design with that in mind,” says Stephanie Wynne Lalin, co-founder and creative director of Jemma Wynne.
“I find that clients that walk through my doors or engage my services are looking for a piece that is not only beautiful, but ethically-sourced and made,” adds West. “Where a diamond is from and the communities they empower adds to the charm of the jewel. Real human connections are important, and I enjoy the process of telling the diamond story from an African perspective.”
“Clients are definitely doing a bit of research before coming to us, which is a great thing,” comments Lucy Crowther, founder of Minka Jewels. “It allows them to explore the sort of designs they like and also have a bit of an idea of the price of some of the gemstones which can vary so much.”
Whether it’s breathing new life into an heirloom—“a really special way to incorporate personal history and sentiment into your ring,” says Tomlinson—or championing recycled metals, which Kinraden founder Sarah Müllertz notes is “no longer a novelty, but something of high value and importance to our customers which [is] only set to continue in the years to come,” there are countless ways to navigate the jewellery space in a conscious manner. “People are more engaged in the provenance of their ring and the sustainability profile; wanting to understand how it’s made, and where the gemstones and metals come from,” says Chalmer.
Then, of course, there’s considering treasures of the past. “The increase in the number of people who are open to antique and vintage engagement rings has surprised me,” remarks Josephine Odet, fine jewellery curator at Omnēque. “Also, the actual look of those [vintage and antique] rings—I call it the non-engagement ring, engagement ring. Instead of choosing the traditional four or six-claw setting, they’re looking at a myriad of styles and settings. Clusters, halos, target rings, bezel-set, pinched collet-set, three stones, five stones et cetera.”
Buying vintage and antique pieces not only brings a unique quality to an engagement ring, but it’s a more sustainable option. Isobel Procter, founder of “consciously curated” jewellery marketplace PI London, muses: “We’re really proud to be able to be a part of the solution in helping consumers be more conscious and sustainable.”
